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amishmafia00
11th February, 2011, 05:35 PM
I would like to have this thread for posting how to make the series 60 run better using dct. anyone who has experience tuning these engines please post what things you changed and what results you had.

Please post questions about installing dct to this thread
http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/f166/detroit-calibration-tool-112226/

dct quick refrence: lots of good information on dct

try going to the start menu/ all programs/detroit diesel/ calibration tool quick refrence
if this doesn't work go to c:\program files \detroit diesel\calibration tool\ WCT.hlp

ddmech
28th February, 2011, 03:35 AM
advance the camshaft timing helps tremendously!

Lickety Split
28th February, 2011, 03:50 AM
advance the camshaft timing helps tremendously!

can you explain how to do this? just learning how to use ddct and would like to learn all i can.
Thanks

acid325
8th March, 2011, 04:32 PM
you can play with cold advance timing if you change the gear of the cam in the front cover of place the engine is not build for that you cannot play with the timing of a detroit beleive me
the piston are very close of the valve if you play with timing the valve become more close and with hi rpm everything broke

ddmech
9th March, 2011, 07:29 PM
to change the timing without danger you must have gauges to check advance.we have advanced a tooth numerous times and still be in ddc specs.

ddmech
9th March, 2011, 07:33 PM
ps. sorry but I dont dont know how to do it with dct.Someone else might though.

rebel127
14th March, 2011, 07:04 PM
ive seen a couple of different cam gear hubs. most ive seen have no adjustment but i changed cam in a ddIV htat had a adjustable hub. anbody have part #'s or insight on this?

ddmech
14th March, 2011, 08:17 PM
rebel is correct.Gears are not adjustable.We make offset timing pins to advance our camshaft timing.This is not detroit diesel procedure.Tese are custom setups.Tricky but very effective for power and economy.

trucks
15th March, 2011, 09:43 AM
why not just play with timing map in ecu?

Lickety Split
15th March, 2011, 02:40 PM
why not just play with timing map in ecu?

just my 2cents,but that only works on injection timing,not valve timing...
which may or may not have an effect on fuel mileage and power,but i wonder how much can be gained by playing with injection timing alone...something to think about.
If anyone has any thoughts or suggestions on this,please,speak up...the masses await.

ddmech
15th March, 2011, 03:43 PM
i

I have probably 30 trucks out there with this done to them,and it is a proven fact it helps power and economy.It does change vale and injection timing to an extent.Changeing timing in computer would definately help both.JJust havent tried that yet.Camshaft timing method is proven fact.

Emgo
15th March, 2011, 05:36 PM
The timing that is controlled by the ECU is the injection timing called BOI (beginning of injection) in DCT. It's like ignition timing in a gasoline engine. Cam timing is something very different. It is a mechanical setting and I'm reasonable sure it's not changeable with the ECU in a series 60. I have degreed in many cams for gasoline engines. As a general rule when you advance the cam timing it moves the power lower in the RPM range and when you retard the cam timing it moves the power of the engine higher in the RPM range. I think the same would be true for diesel engines. ddmech I would like to know how much you are changing the cam timing. Are you using the center-line method? Gasoline engines will usually have a range something like 102 to 108 degree center-line. I'm sure you can make improvements by changing the cam / valve timing.

Emgo

Emgo
15th March, 2011, 05:49 PM
I would like to have this thread for posting how to make the series 60 run better using dct. anyone who has experience tuning these engines please post what things you changed and what results you had.

Please post questions about installing dct to this thread
http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/f166/detroit-calibration-tool-112226/

amishmafia00

I'm very glad you started this thread. I think I see what you want to do. It would be great if there was a way to split up the existing threads on DCT, DDDL, DDRS, Cat ET, Cal Term III, etc. into 3 categories. Installing, Keys and Using the software. There is great information in all of the existing threads. I spend a lot of time reading through the threads trying to learn how to use the different softwares. I think it would be beneficial to everyone if there were a way to keep the 3 items separate. Maybe a moderator or an experienced DK'er could chime in here. At least we might be able to start 3 separate categories next time we have new software to share or maybe it's a bad ideal for a reason I haven't thought of.

I'm very interested in Series 60 performance and fuel efficiency increases whether it comes from mechanical changes or reprogramming.


Thanks,

Emgo

ddmech
15th March, 2011, 06:08 PM
we go by injector cam roller lift at top center.Have built gauges to measure lift and tdc.Different camshafts have different specs.

amishmafia00
15th March, 2011, 08:39 PM
I am glad to see people posting here, i was a little woried there wouldn't be any response.

I was looking over calibrations we had done by other people before i found dct and I found something that scares me a little, "max_pulse_width" is set at 63.9961. on stock calibrations and ones that we've had done by others i think the most i've seen is 40. Will having the max_pulse_width set like this cause problems.

on cam timing, don't try to do it by going an extra tooth on the gear. we had one that was one tooth off when we got it, never knew it till it dropped a valve 6 months later from the valves hitting the piston

amishmafia00
15th March, 2011, 08:45 PM
ddmech
Do you know specs of diferent cams? i've seen older 500 hp 12.7 with injection advance listed on the valve cover as 20 deg and newer ones listed as 14 (I think) are there particular cam/injector combinations that get better results than others?

If you would be willing to I would be very interested in more details on exactly how you do your cam timing adjustments.

Here I am Getting off topic, maybe we should rename this thread series 60 performance tuning. to cover mechanical modifications as well.

does anyone have experience with the low compression pistons. Is there anything that i can do diferently in the ecm than I would on a higher compression engine?

Thanks everyone!

ddmech
16th March, 2011, 04:35 AM
I must stress that advance cam timing is very dangerous to the engine if you dont know exactly what you are doing!You can advance the cam a tooth safely if the engine is low enough in time to begin with.This must not tried unless you have the right gauges to check the timing precisely to start with!

ddmech
16th March, 2011, 04:39 AM
Sorry for getting off topic I just got caught up in the posts.LOL!

amishmafia00
16th March, 2011, 03:23 PM
not a problem being off topic, maybe we should start another thread for mechanical modifications i'll pm you about the cams

amishmafia00
20th March, 2011, 03:38 AM
I have a fresh example of what the wrong gear position can do. we put a 12.7 on a piece of equipment. finaly got it out of the shop 3 days ago. it sounded great at full rpm no load. when a load was put on it it lasted 10 seconds and then just died. When the head came back from the machine shop the plugs were not in the fuel passages at the front of the head so we had to pull the head to put in the plugs the gear must have moved when in the process. I think the pistons were hitting hard enough that the cam dowel sheared. when the cam stopped spinning several valves were hanging open. at 2000 rpm the impact was enough to shatter 4 of the ceramic rollers.
all this after having our 3412 appart for the third time in a month

:banghead::bawling:

the only good thing was how responsive it sounded with my modified calibration. i just can't wait to see what kind of production it makes (had to add that to stay on topic :))

ddmech
21st March, 2011, 02:50 AM
sounds more like the cam bolt came loose.Know from experience,hahaha!Bent 22 out of 24 valves.Never did figure out why it missed those 2!

amishmafia00
21st March, 2011, 02:58 AM
when your cam bolt came loose did it shear the dowel cleanly, or did it bend it over and break it off?

torqueman
21st March, 2011, 03:10 AM
when your cam bolt came loose did it shear the dowel cleanly, or did it bend it over and break it off?

Ya it will clean whole dowel and and will sure damage to cam shaft gear.

ddmech
21st March, 2011, 03:59 AM
I cant rember exatly but I know that we reused the cam and dowel pin.I think it just beat the pin up a little so we cleaned it up and put it back in.It was going to the sale so we werent very picky.Let that be a lesson to everyone.Someone elses truck.

NEVER EVER BUY A TRUCK AT THE SALES.YOU WILL GET WHAT YOU ASKED FOR!

amishmafia00
4th April, 2011, 04:51 PM
I am building a bench test setup that will allow me to simulate all the important sensors so that the ecm thinks it's on an engine. example . ecm thinks that the engine is running at 1800 rpm and we take a potentiometer which simulates the intake air temp we adjust the potentiometer and watch to see how the ecm changes the timing and pulsewidth. if i'm correct if you open a map when the engine is running the cell that the ecm is currently using will be highlighted. so we can also see where the ecm is looking to get values on diferent maps.

The one thing that will be dificult will be simulating load on the engine. i'm not sure how the ecm calculates load, but i have a feeling that if i can't make the engine think that there is a load on the engine it will output a pulsewidth for idle, or maybe even 0.

Does anyone have an idea how the ecm calculates load?

thanks!

djz4248
5th April, 2011, 02:23 AM
its looking at throttle position and rpm. low rpm and 100% throttle = full pulsewidth on injectors untill rated engine speed is reached.

been thinking of doing the same thing. easy to play with on the bench.

amishmafia00
5th April, 2011, 01:21 PM
its looking at throttle position and rpm. low rpm and 100% throttle = full pulsewidth on injectors untill rated engine speed is reached.

been thinking of doing the same thing. easy to play with on the bench.

we put these engines on stationary equipment, i have them set up with no tps, they run on cruise switch vsg. when running on vsg where is it looking?

thanks

Texas149
5th April, 2011, 05:27 PM
I too have seen numerous 60's one tooth off after a build and about 3-6 months later have the valves hit the pistons. I certainly wouldn't try changing the cam gear timing unless you have the timing gauge DDMECH described. I agree that if your base timing is low enough you could possibly move a tooth and be ok but you must know your specs. I check base timing on every engine before I pull a head, just to make sure shade-tree Bob hasn't jacked with it.

dieselbear
8th April, 2011, 04:56 AM
Does anyone know of any modifications that can be made to the engine sensor wiring harness on a Series 60 such as the fuel temp sensor 100 ohm resistor mod that can be performed on a C-15 CAT for 60 rear wheel HP?

I'm open to other ideas as well.

amishmafia00
13th April, 2011, 09:38 PM
when i use the create calibration tool the "derived pw and boi" button is greyed out, does anyone know why and how to enable it?
Thanks

amishmafia00
21st April, 2011, 04:17 AM
I need some advice on the best way to add more power after modifying the requested torque table. I need to be at about 750hp. this is a ddec iv 15:1 pistons. if needed i can get you cam and injector part numbers.
thanks to everyone

trucks
21st April, 2011, 10:40 AM
I need some advice on the best way to add more power after modifying the requested torque table. I need to be at about 750hp. this is a ddec iv 15:1 pistons. if needed i can get you cam and injector part numbers.
thanks to everyone
Modify the pulse width table and then you might need to do the smoke limiting torque table to clear up some smoke.The pulse width table is in the shared folder under tables I think.I am looking for a cam part number for the 825 hp marine engine and also a recommendation on turbo for 750 + hp.

amishmafia00
21st April, 2011, 01:05 PM
trucks,
we have the 825 cam and injectors, but we are saving them for a 14 liter, we are getting a stock cam reground with more duration and lift on the valves. hopefully this works and is cheaper than the marine cam. we are running the borg warner turbo that i think is the same as what pittsburgh power and pdi are selling. this engineruns at 1800- 2100. no lower than that under load unless there is a serious problem.

Thanks

amishmafia00
21st April, 2011, 10:36 PM
Modify the pulse width table and then you might need to do the smoke limiting torque table to clear up some smoke.The pulse width table is in the shared folder under tables I think.I am looking for a cam part number for the 825 hp marine engine and also a recommendation on turbo for 750 + hp.

i was looking at my calibration, i went into the pulse width map, there are lots of cells over 40. my maximum pulse width is set at 40. does this mean the ecm will limit the pulse width even if it is over 40 on the map? if this is the case should i just increase my max pulse width?

does anyone play with BOI?

amishmafia00
22nd April, 2011, 03:22 PM
i adjusted the maximum pulse width to 45 and it definately made a diference, but watching the pulsewidth in dddl the highest it got was a little over 33. could this be due to the smoke limiting torque cutting back the pulse width?

amishmafia00
22nd April, 2011, 09:42 PM
I updated the first post, with dct quickrefrence info. someone let me know if this works for everyone else. if not i'll upload the files and try it

Lickety Split
23rd April, 2011, 06:27 AM
i adjusted the maximum pulse width to 45 and it definately made a diference, but watching the pulsewidth in dddl the highest it got was a little over 33. could this be due to the smoke limiting torque cutting back the pulse width?

amishmafia00,i think you may be right,the smoke limiting is holding you back...you can use dct to bypass though,when slewing,look for "allowable torque" i have tried setting this as add to existing value and set it at 100%,and boy does it make a difference,but be careful,not sure what damage it could do...all this is doing is bypassing any restrictions from other parameters,without having to go hunting for all of them...this CAN be done on the fly,if you dont like the result,just cancel the override.;)

ps...you can also play with the pwm and boi in slew (dct),but again,be careful,if you slew the pwm too much,it will start to run very rough(too much fuel?)...slewing the boi will be like changing the ignition timing.

pss...i would still like to see the cal files from one of those ecm's done by PDI or Pittsburgh Power...send me a PM please.

amishmafia00
23rd April, 2011, 07:43 PM
i went in to make some changes on the calibration and found that somehow the requested torque was back to stock, i'm thinking that somehow i uploaded the stock calibration before i made the max pulsewidth change. so remodified the requested torque and also made some changes to smoke limiting torque, can't wait till monday to see how it works!

on the calibrations, after some carefull consideration i think it's best not to share the calibrations. we really have no idea who all is on DK. I don't want to piss off someone who might otherwise be a huge help!
another reason, I took one of the professionally programed ecm's that's in one of our trucks, did a split and join, and tried to figure out anything else that was changed, put the calibration in a stationary engine and thought i was going to have a gread running engine, instead it blew up, TWICE. so i started off from the stock program and started making changes on my own.
unless you know absolutely everything that was changed on an ecm there is no guarantee that you can duplicate the tune.

amishmafia00
4th May, 2011, 02:43 AM
well I made some progress. with the maximum pulsewidth set to 45 the engine seemed to miss, so i set it back to 40 and went to the smoke limiting torque map. i made some changes at higher rpm and boost values. while running the engine i actually saw 100% load and a pulsewidth of 40. so i looks like i'm maxed out at the moment. It looks like the miss that i thought might have been caused by the modified pulsewidth is most likely due to sucking air, i'll know tomorrow. it looks like the next step is more pulse width. and i'd also like to start changing boi settings but i'm not exactly sure wich way to adjust. another thing i have to address is fuel temperature, after running for 4 hours straight fuel temp was up to 191 YIKES! i wonder what the auto ignition temperature is for #2

ddmech
4th May, 2011, 03:00 PM
Do you have any idea whatyour exhaust temp was running?

amishmafia00
4th May, 2011, 06:21 PM
no i don't know what egts were. i do know that boost was right around 50psi and our water to air intercooler had intake air temps down to 110 degrees. im on the phone now to get a pyrometer

ddmech
4th May, 2011, 11:37 PM
the engines I have turned up a lot didnt have pyrometers.Was just wondering what the were running.50 pounds of boost is more than I have ever saw on a gk/mk/bk/tk configuration.

Juanincho
5th May, 2011, 06:11 PM
no i don't know what egts were. i do know that boost was right around 50psi and our water to air intercooler had intake air temps down to 110 degrees. im on the phone now to get a pyrometer

I agre with ddmech. Are you sure you got 50 psi? If the wastegate works well, it should limit boost to 35 psi. Yesterday I played with the maximum pw, setting it to 49, and also modifying the pw_fudge_factor, as it says, is a multiplying factor for the final pw, if it is set to 1, the pw remains the same, so I put it to 1.05 and there was a big difference. I'm going to change the governor overall gain, to see what happens. Cheers !:pepsi:

ddmech
5th May, 2011, 10:09 PM
Most wastegates on the 60 ser hyway config are set to31-32 psi.We usually unhook them though because they give so much trouble as they get older.Will open and not close back completely.Then low boost.

acid325
7th May, 2011, 03:34 AM
if you play with pulse widht lol your engine make blow by and after a couple of mount lol tha rip the piston
only an advice do what you want but i only made 3000 calibration for travel truck maybe you are better then me how know

acid325
7th May, 2011, 03:37 AM
50 psi is trully possible but only give power if you really want fuel economi you need power at low boost

trucks
7th May, 2011, 09:43 AM
if you play with pulse widht lol your engine make blow by and after a couple of mount lol tha rip the piston
only an advice do what you want but i only made 3000 calibration for travel truck maybe you are better then me how know
So how do YOU get more power?If playing with the pulse width is so funny.:pcguru:

amishmafia00
8th May, 2011, 03:08 AM
this engine has the non wastegated borgwarner turbo on it.

acid 325,
This engine is not in a truck, the engine needs to run at 1800 to 2100 all day long, the engine and intake air are cooled with heat exchangers. I am new to dct, i have only been trying the obvious things. pretty much all i changed was to change the requested torque and smoke limiting torque to 100 at several places, now when under heavy load it will reach the max pulse width. max pulse width is still at 40. just as you said, yesterday when it would get a heavy load on it it would start to blowby.
what is the better way to get more power? earlier you said cold advance will give you more power, can you hurt the engine with cold advance? how should i change the cold advance, higher or lower?

hercamp
9th May, 2011, 01:03 AM
if works at 1800 or 2100 ...for long time is genset???
or a marine...but in marine engine has cal files for 850 hp...I dont think that you will need more of that power!

if is in a machinery like a back loadrer or any other ...dont need that kind of power ...even if you want that your servotransmitions works for a loooooong time .

so here is the question ......what kind of engine is it? aplications????...

acid325
9th May, 2011, 02:43 AM
like hercamp says what type of engine is it and for the cold advence that depend of hp or torq what you want and injector and turbo

amishmafia00
9th May, 2011, 04:31 AM
this is the machine MODEL (http://www.who-mfg.com/P1256.html)
this machine grinds wood. with more power i can make mulch faster. so more is better. but i want the engine to last. this machine has to be able to run all day everyday.
the engine is cooled by heat exchangers fed by pond water so cooling shouldn't be an issue. the weak link is the clutch, it should be able to handle 700 hp so that's what i would like to shoot for.

the engine is a 500 hp model is BK

injectors are 7650

turbo is borg warner 171702

I have attached the stock calibration

I have taken pictures of our actual machine but are too large, i will try to rar and upload

Thank you

hercamp
9th May, 2011, 03:44 PM
oh...yeah...Ive seen marine engine with that caracteristics....its works ..I have done a couple agro machinery modifications...and yes always need more power..but you cant start with boi or pulse whtt...thats not help you even if you dont workrs with fix rpms..I mean contant 1800 or 2100....

amishmafia00
9th May, 2011, 07:07 PM
oh...yeah...Ive seen marine engine with that caracteristics....its works ..I have done a couple agro machinery modifications...and yes always need more power..but you cant start with boi or pulse whtt...thats not help you even if you dont workrs with fix rpms..I mean contant 1800 or 2100....

where do you start to get more power for something like this?

amishmafia00
10th May, 2011, 12:26 PM
here are pictures, the engine is very dirty as we had two oil leaks to fix


ok, pictures won't upload. i'll try again later

Emgo
10th May, 2011, 11:46 PM
amishmafia00, did you get a chance to check your exhaust temp yet under full load? My limited experience in diesel performance tuning is with a mechanical 5.9 Cummins. All my research indicates 1200 degrees F on the hardest pull is about max for reliability. 1200 degrees seems to about the max for other engines I checked on. If your engine is at full throttle (full load) most of the time 1200 degrees may be too high. That is if you are looking for reliability.

I'm running a hybrid turbo with a maximum of 35 lbs boost. Which is the safe maximum with a stock head gasket. For some reason it wears out the compressor side seal in the turbo much quicker than I think it should. When the seal starts getting worn I have excessive blowby. The first time it happened I thought I had broken a piston ring, the blowby was really bad.

I know I'm talking about a completely different engine, but the principals should be similar.

EGT's are important for determining air to fuel ratio.
With high boost pressure your turbo must be in good condition.

A question for guys with experience. What is a the max exhaust temp for series 60 under full load and it still be reliable? How much boost is safe?

Emgo

amishmafia00
11th May, 2011, 12:50 AM
emgo,
I haven't yet had a chance to check egt's under full load. the machine is getting some additional modifications to help increase output, I will also be trying a new program (someone elses program) which i'm hoping will reduce fuel consumption, boost, egt, and coolant temps. acid325 made a very good point a couple of posts ago. high boost is good for high horsepower, but high boost may be a sign of over fueling. when we run the machine again i will be checking the turbo for excesive blowby, will also be checking the aircompressor.i will keep you updated.

acid325
12th May, 2011, 03:16 AM
amashmafia i made a couple of 12 mpg serie 60 on laod this possible overboost is not really= to overfuelling i can made you a cal with 50 psi no smoke and 900 og egt
depend of your timing and everything you cannot change a number in pulse width and think all ajust by is self all creted too be like the cal is at the start you need too chaneg everything too make it work proprelly is easy change 2 number and run with high horse power i can do this but make a real cal is really hard

amishmafia00
12th May, 2011, 01:30 PM
acid
anyone can change a couple of things and make hp, but to make a good calibration is the hard thing. what kind of power did you get with the 12mpg? Thanks for your help!

acid325
18th May, 2011, 05:06 AM
800 hp at wheel 42 psi 2800 lbs of torq

amishmafia00
18th May, 2011, 03:51 PM
ok, i finally got the pictures to upload

amishmafia00
19th May, 2011, 12:54 AM
800 hp at wheel 42 psi 2800 lbs of torq

could you share what parts this engine had? was this a 12.7L?

acid325
23rd May, 2011, 04:22 AM
yes is 12.7l but cant give part number and all blablabla is the result of all my work and i dont give it for free sorry

amishmafia00
23rd May, 2011, 12:38 PM
i understand, but i had to ask:D did you only make one truck like that? why doesn't everyone who comes to you get you to do that to their truck?

transinter
24th May, 2011, 02:01 AM
hi there. sorry for the inconvenience, please if I can help with this problem

I have a truck
but I can not move because this parameter with the ECM password
I remove the password
ANYONE KNOW HOW TO REMOVE THE PASSWORD

THANKS FOR THE HELP

amishmafia00
24th May, 2011, 03:39 AM
did you try 0000?

acid325
24th May, 2011, 06:09 AM
lol i do a couple like 5 but is always a money problem need injector cam turbo programmation and all have a price.. no body want too spend 8000 dollard one times
i do it little by little exemple when i have too change injector i put the good number same thing for the turbo and when he have money change the cam ans ajust all valve and injector by my way because i ajust it defferent then wroth on the valve cover or the specs
and after that i sell my proggramation for that

amishmafia00
24th May, 2011, 01:38 PM
can the injectors be adjusted diferently than what's on the valve cover? i've thought about trying that. I just wish i had more time and my own dyno:D

acid325
24th May, 2011, 08:32 PM
yes can is the only way too give good injection timing but easy too be out of the track too

amishmafia00
25th May, 2011, 04:03 AM
when you adjust the injector diferent will it make a diference by its self or do you have to change the program too?

acid325
26th May, 2011, 04:03 AM
if you know what the injector ajustement do you cannot ask this type of question what does the injector ajustement....
injection compression timing... but you also can broke the injector in sugest you too do this with old injector

amishmafia00
2nd June, 2011, 12:12 PM
Well we finally had a chance to run the machine with the new program thanks to acid. I guessed that the program I made was at about 685 hp. the one i put in is supposed to be 700. so i wasn't supprised that the machine didn't run much different. however, the engine did run MUCH cooler. I didn't have a pyro on with my program. but now the egts hang right around 900F i did see 1000 a couple of times. we had drained fuel tanks while we had the machine down. so we'll put fuel filters on it and see if that makes a diference.

acid325
6th June, 2011, 03:55 AM
take a transmition air cooler and too cool your fuel temperature and put a car electronic fan on it and that cool your fuel temperature alot

amishmafia00
6th June, 2011, 04:15 AM
return fuel to the tank definately heats up the fuel alot. i have a smaller egr cooler i was going to put on when i get time. very exciting

alexusl
13th June, 2011, 09:56 PM
i am looking for the key for a ddl program

spencey
18th July, 2011, 12:12 PM
just my 2cents,but that only works on injection timing,not valve timing...
which may or may not have an effect on fuel mileage and power,but i wonder how much can be gained by playing with injection timing alone...something to think about.
If anyone has any thoughts or suggestions on this,please,speak up...the masses await.
injection timing does make a difference but i completely agree it makes absolutly no difference to cam timing one bit and people playing with the stat of injection should be carefull because advancing it too far without changing cam timing will cause the injector valve to open before the plunger starts to move so the plunger does not have enough time to create the nessasary preassure to rappidly open the nozzle as required for proper atomization it will drip fuel at start of injection and then opening the pulsewith from original start of injection can cause the injector to remain open over the nose of the cam which makes the closing of the nozzle to dwindle away instead of a rapid shut that will drip fuel at end of injection that may build up on top of piston causing engine failure

Lickety Split
18th July, 2011, 03:31 PM
injection timing does make a difference but i completely agree it makes absolutly no difference to cam timing one bit and people playing with the stat of injection should be carefull because advancing it too far without changing cam timing will cause the injector valve to open before the plunger starts to move so the plunger does not have enough time to create the nessasary preassure to rappidly open the nozzle as required for proper atomization it will drip fuel at start of injection and then opening the pulsewith from original start of injection can cause the injector to remain open over the nose of the cam which makes the closing of the nozzle to dwindle away instead of a rapid shut that will drip fuel at end of injection that may build up on top of piston causing engine failure


I just wonder how far one could go...anyone ever played around with this?
I do have a calibration in mine now that is 550hp@1850ftlbs,the only difference i can find is in the BOI and Pulse width tables,not sure how much hp she is really making (without a dyno report) but according to ddrs,she is making 1850ftlbs of torque,and i sure can tell the difference...doesnt seem to have hurt the fuel mileage either,still getting 5.5 to 6.5 mpg with i 98 western star that weighs almost 25,000lbs all by herself. :driver:

ddmech
18th July, 2011, 03:49 PM
In response to my own post #44,since I have seen turbo boost pressure to 50 psi on two of my engines.Great hp but high ex temps.After these two I would not advise over about 40.Dont seem to have any problems at tkis psi.

sptecnico82
4th August, 2011, 07:30 AM
In response to my own post #44,since I have seen turbo boost pressure to 50 psi on two of my engines.Great hp but high ex temps.After these two I would not advise over about 40.Dont seem to have any problems at tkis psi.

I have a client with readings about 45 psi in the turbo boost. Until I know there is no problem, but originally the ECM display alert about the presure and he asked me to modify the program to stop the alert. Since that, he did not report any trouble. :driver:

ddmech
4th August, 2011, 03:39 PM
I can get 36-38 psi with stock program and advancing cam timing in motor.Still runs great with exellent mileage.Just lock the wastegate closed.

Wastegate=Usleless piece of engineering!

Lickety Split
4th September, 2011, 03:03 AM
Ok Guys,here's a dumb question...is it possible to use half engine mode to save fuel?
in other words...make it so that anytime the engine is below,say,25% load,it goes into half engine mode...i know this is normally used as a way to warm it up quicker,and use less fuel at idle,but if it wouldn't cause problems,it may work to save fuel when cruising,especially when loaded lite.

I.E. when cruising,and load is below,lets say 25%,the engine runs on 3cyl,but as load comes up above that,the other 3 kick in...sort of like what the automotive engines are doing...i know at least one mfg has been doing this for some time,but those are gas engines too,not diesel...just a thought.

Thecell
16th October, 2011, 06:45 AM
I can get 36-38 psi with stock program and advancing cam timing in motor.Still runs great with exellent mileage.Just lock the wastegate closed.

Wastegate=Usleless piece of engineering!

Didn't you say you could disable the waste gate in DDCT?

Where exactly in the file?

Thanks,

Thecell
16th October, 2011, 10:30 AM
Ok Guys,here's a dumb question...is it possible to use half engine mode to save fuel?
in other words...make it so that anytime the engine is below,say,25% load,it goes into half engine mode...i know this is normally used as a way to warm it up quicker,and use less fuel at idle,but if it wouldn't cause problems,it may work to save fuel when cruising,especially when loaded lite.

I.E. when cruising,and load is below,lets say 25%,the engine runs on 3cyl,but as load comes up above that,the other 3 kick in...sort of like what the automotive engines are doing...i know at least one mfg has been doing this for some time,but those are gas engines too,not diesel...just a thought.

Currently the limit in using the HAlf Engine Mode, is you must be at Idle. We have looked at trying it in a steady state, ie cruising, but when we monitored the demand load during Bob-Tailing down a level road, the power requirement was always over 30 +% . Possibly we could change the scaling on the parameters to allow a higher value of engagement. Will keep this in mind and post with results.

Lickety Split
17th October, 2011, 05:36 AM
Currently the limit in using the HAlf Engine Mode, is you must be at Idle. We have looked at trying it in a steady state, ie cruising, but when we monitored the demand load during Bob-Tailing down a level road, the power requirement was always over 30 +% . Possibly we could change the scaling on the parameters to allow a higher value of engagement. Will keep this in mind and post with results.

OK,Thanks for the response...i guess it's back to the drawing board,looking for good fuel mileage,but still need 500 to 600 hp and at least 1800ftlbs of torque. getting around 6mpg now with 1850ftlbs and i think about 550hp. (haven't dynoed it,so no way to tell as none of the DDC software shows us developed HP...not that i can find anyway.)

BTW...this is with a '98 series60 DDEC IV in a Western Star (like a BRICK) she's making about 30lbs of boost and is hard pressed to get over 1100*F on the pyro. If you guys like,i can try to get all the specs and settings posted on here.

Thecell
19th October, 2011, 05:22 AM
OK,Thanks for the response...i guess it's back to the drawing board,looking for good fuel mileage,but still need 500 to 600 hp and at least 1800ftlbs of torque. getting around 6mpg now with 1850ftlbs and i think about 550hp. (haven't dynoed it,so no way to tell as none of the DDC software shows us developed HP...not that i can find anyway.)

BTW...this is with a '98 series60 DDEC IV in a Western Star (like a BRICK) she's making about 30lbs of boost and is hard pressed to get over 1100*F on the pyro. If you guys like,i can try to get all the specs and settings posted on here.



We have come up with a DDEC V cal that allows half speed engine operation with the following restrictions:

Max Speed 69 MPH
Max Torque 30%
Max Time allowed on 59 Min
Reset time for cycle 30 sec ( needed for cycling)

Note: External temp sensor needs to be faked out to 48 degrees F....we are working on it.

This currently works on a Series 60, 14 L and 12.7L. We have run this with a sleeper cab and flatbed. No load on the trailer as we didn't have anything to carry.

If interested Post on forum and I will PM the file to you.

WARNING! This is a test calibration use at own risk. Even though it is working on a truck now, doesn't mean it is fully tested. The initial results showed a MPG gain of 1.2 MPG more than without.

Lickety Split
20th October, 2011, 06:00 AM
We have come up with a DDEC V cal that allows half speed engine operation with the following restrictions:

Max Speed 69 MPH
Max Torque 30%
Max Time allowed on 59 Min
Reset time for cycle 30 sec ( needed for cycling)

Note: External temp sensor needs to be faked out to 48 degrees F....we are working on it.

This currently works on a Series 60, 14 L and 12.7L. We have run this with a sleeper cab and flatbed. No load on the trailer as we didn't have anything to carry.

If interested Post on forum and I will PM the file to you.

WARNING! This is a test calibration use at own risk. Even though it is working on a truck now, doesn't mean it is fully tested. The initial results showed a MPG gain of 1.2 MPG more than without.

I would be very interested to try this...may take some time to figured it out,as i have a DDEC IV,but if i see the file i may be able to adjust my cal to match. Please send me a PM,i'll give you a yahoo address to send it to if needed. Thanks

mathura
26th October, 2011, 04:47 AM
Hi
I am new at this and you guys seems to be the experts, I am trying to disable the engine brakes from the ECM of a Series 60 by using DDDL but cannot do so.
When I go to diagnostics,ECM IO and attempt to disable engine brakes it would not accept the commands.

Any advice would be welcome

Thanks

amishmafia00
28th October, 2011, 12:46 AM
you can not change anything from that screen , you need to retrieve calibration from the ecm make changes, then transmit back to the ecm. for passwords try 0000

mathura
28th October, 2011, 12:15 PM
Thanks for the information
When I tried to retrieve calibration, I get error and the screen is requesting to send error to microsoft, then program shuts down.

I am using software DDDL v5.01 and would appreciate any advice that I can get.

amishmafia00
28th October, 2011, 03:29 PM
you are connected to the engine while trying to retrieve calibration? get a screen shot of the error and I may be able to help

Poptest
17th November, 2011, 12:31 AM
Hello DK.... Please advise me on best way to derate Series 60 from 450hp to 350hp.

Many thanks......

Lickety Split
17th November, 2011, 12:59 AM
Hello DK.... Please advise me on best way to derate Series 60 from 450hp to 350hp.

Many thanks......

I see by the title,you are looking to reduce fuel usage?
I am a strong believer this is the WRONG way to go...here's why,think about this for a minute...who will burn more fuel,the one who climbs the hill one gear down at half throttle and does it in 30 seconds...or the one who climbs the same hill 2 or 3 gears down at full throttle and takes 45 seconds?

I have been around trucks all my life and have been driving for 30 years,and i strongly believe the ONLY way you are getting good mileage is to get the biggest motor you can,turn it as high as it will go,and get the driver to KEEP HIS FOOT OUT OF IT!!! Just because i can make 600 HP doesnt mean i HAVE too...but when i need it,i have the power to BACK ME UP.

I have a 98 Western Star with a series60 DDEC IV. this truck weighs 25,000# all by itself and still gets 6.5 to 7 mpg pulling a flat running all 48 states.

If you have any questions,feel free to post here or send me a PM

Poptest
17th November, 2011, 02:38 AM
Thanks for your prompt reply. You are right about this.

Here's the situation. My customer has Cummins trucks rated at 330 - 350hp, and he's happy with his fuel use. He now buys a used Freightliner with Series60 450hp engine. Engine runs fine but fuel consumption is way off compared to his 330hp Cummins engines.

His trucks carry a fixed load which is not so heavy. This is why I'm considering a power derate on this engine. I'm not really sure if this will improve consumption though.

Thanks much....

Lickety Split
17th November, 2011, 03:12 AM
Thanks for your prompt reply. You are right about this.

Here's the situation. My customer has Cummins trucks rated at 330 - 350hp, and he's happy with his fuel use. He now buys a used Freightliner with Series60 450hp engine. Engine runs fine but fuel consumption is way off compared to his 330hp Cummins engines.

His trucks carry a fixed load which is not so heavy. This is why I'm considering a power derate on this engine. I'm not really sure if this will improve consumption though.

Thanks much....

No problem...a lot depends on whether they are geared the same too...do they have the same gearbox and rearend ratios? tire size can have an effect too. but if he's happy with the other ones then he's the one paying the bill,go for it...but i stand by my original post...Build em big and drive em easy

BTW,if you look in the ratings on the ecm,it may already have other ratings there...i.e DDEC IV allows up to 4 ratings that can be changed with a simple hookup on a reader or laptop.
for example,mine has 475,500,550 and 600hp setups,i can load any one just by hooking up to the laptop for a few minutes. I have even heard that it can be done with 2 switches on the dash...i.e. depending on how the switches are set when you start the engine,determines what setup is running.
Hope all this helps

Hmmm...you might want to check this truck REALLY good...the charge air cooler is a BIG problem,any more than 3psi drop in15 seconds and i'd be replacing it...how's the gearbox and rears? i had one once that burned up the power divider before i figured out why it was overheating. how bout brakes? i just went thru some problems with trailer brakes dragging ever so little,and put my mpg in the crapper.

I'm not trying to sound like a "Know it all" but ya gotta look at the WHOLE picture,especially with a "new" truck that you really don't know. not saying you dont know about trucks,but what other problems might be lurking in the background,having an effect on the mpg. and the driver too...is the extra hp going to his head? I'm just sayin...Stand back and look at the big picture before you waste alot of time chasing problems that aren't there.

ddmech
17th November, 2011, 03:13 AM
I agree with lickety split completely.Leave the engines turned up.Use your progressive shift to limit your rpms to 1800 and speed to 70 or less .With detroits low rpms,tight charged air coolers,correct valve adjustments are all critical for mileage.Also any speed over 65 or 70 with cut your mileage tremendously.Sorry driver but the days of triple digits are about over.

Lickety Split
17th November, 2011, 04:02 AM
Yep,mine will do 100mph in a big hurry if i ask er too,but you will never see me doing more than 65 no matter the limit

Poptest
17th November, 2011, 06:51 AM
No problem...a lot depends on whether they are geared the same too...do they have the same gearbox and rear end ratios? tire size can have an effect too. but if he's happy with the other ones then he's the one paying the bill, go for it...but i stand by my original post...Build em big and drive em easy. I haven't checked anything as the truck is not yet in.

BTW,if you look in the ratings on the ecm,it may already have other ratings there...i.e DDEC IV allows up to 4 ratings that can be changed with a simple hookup on a reader or laptop. What software is best to check and modify ratings?
for example,mine has 475,500,550 and 600hp setups,i can load any one just by hooking up to the laptop for a few minutes. I have even heard that it can be done with 2 switches on the dash...i.e. depending on how the switches are set when you start the engine, determines what setup is running. I didn't know this. thanks for the tip.

Hmmm...you might want to check this truck REALLY good...the charge air cooler is a BIG problem,any more than 3psi drop in15 seconds and i'd be replacing it...how's the gearbox and rears? i had one once that burned up the power divider before i figured out why it was overheating. how bout brakes? i just went thru some problems with trailer brakes dragging ever so little,and put my mpg in the crapper.

I'm not trying to sound like a "Know it all" but ya gotta look at the WHOLE picture,especially with a "new" truck that you really don't know. not saying you dont know about trucks,but what other problems might be lurking in the background,having an effect on the mpg. and the driver too...is the extra hp going to his head? I'm just sayin...Stand back and look at the big picture before you waste alot of time chasing problems that aren't there. Of
course I will check everything which may influence consumption.......just want to be prepared on steps to do when truck comes in.

Thanks again!!

jm30013
17th November, 2011, 07:37 PM
advance the camshaft timing helps tremendously!

Lickety Split
17th November, 2011, 10:00 PM
Ok Poptest, i would start with the charge air cooler first,then run the overhead. as far as software,i use dddl,ddrs and ddct...all are available here on DK,just search the garage forums for info,if you need help,just ask here or pm me.

Yes,advancing cam timing MAY help,but you GOTTA be really careful there as these are interference engines,which means if you go too far,you WILL punch a valve thru the top of a piston...I DO NOT ADVISE DOING IT...for more info on this,ask ddmech...i do not work on engines every day,just my own when it needs it,i am a driver but do everything i can myself...no offense to the guys who work in the shops,but ya gotta save where ya can.

Poptest
18th November, 2011, 08:09 AM
Thanks Lickety and ddmech. Your tips will guide me when I see that truck.

ddmech
19th November, 2011, 02:04 AM
Hope it helps Poptest.The most benificial but also the most dangerous is advance cam timing.It is not something for beginners in the engine buissiness because if not done correctly it is very easy to blow and engine.If done correctly I have saw as much as 2 mpg increase in mileage.Have had better results and more consistant
results than anything I have tried.

Dieselhawk
23rd November, 2011, 02:24 PM
you can not change anything from that screen , you need to retrieve calibration from the ecm make changes, then transmit back to the ecm. for passwords try 0000

I'm pretty sure you need DDRS to turn the Jakes off anyway. I don't think ins/outs can be changed with DDDL.

Lickety Split
23rd November, 2011, 02:31 PM
I'm pretty sure you need DDRS to turn the Jakes off anyway. I don't think ins/outs can be changed with DDDL.

You are correct Dieselhawk...I/O cannot be changed with dddl,must be done with ddrs or ddct.

junkyardkid
6th December, 2011, 06:02 AM
any sugestions on optimal cam timing for power, fuel mileage? I have 04 ddec 4 egr (cut egr nuts):beheaded::beheaded: std cam timing ( i think 13 deg)

mathura
29th December, 2011, 10:48 PM
Detroit series 60- Engine will not start.
The truck worked and park yesterday and this morning it refused to start, I used the DDDL software and scan the system. Active code 42- too few SRS. I checked the sensor and wires which proves ok, I also checked the TRS sensors and wires according to the troubleshooting and found nothing wrong.

I checked to see if timing gears were rotating and this is also ok.ECM is receiving power. Neep Help Please.
What else should I look for.

Thanks

hercamp
29th December, 2011, 10:58 PM
with dddl connected...crank engine ....and read rpms signals ...if rpms ar high to 150 engime most start ....with all fuel lines full ....look in response time table too during cranck .....most read iguals vaules...normally with fuel lines connected and not air in system .....1.08 up ....and voltage that read ecm ...if is slower to 11.v will not open injectors...and most look in electrical starter..

mathura
30th December, 2011, 12:01 AM
with dddl connected...crank engine ....and read rpms signals ...if rpms ar high to 150 engime most start ....with all fuel lines full ....look in response time table too during cranck .....most read iguals vaules...normally with fuel lines connected and not air in system .....1.08 up ....and voltage that read ecm ...if is slower to 11.v will not open injectors...and most look in electrical starter..

Thanks for the response
New batteries, good cranking, I did not measure the rpm. Tried another good ECM.

Why am I getting code 42. Initally code 42 showed as inactive but while cranking it becomes active.

marcos4905
30th December, 2011, 02:07 AM
The S-60 engine has two sensors (one behind the compressor -42 - one in the crankcase -41 -), at the start both work. It is recommended to change both

mathura
30th December, 2011, 02:30 AM
The S-60 engine has two sensors (one behind the compressor -42 - one in the crankcase -41 -), at the start both work. It is recommended to change both

My Friend
The troubleshooting guide has proven that both sensors are good, how do I just decide to change them.
I need help, but changing parts is not the answer.
These sensors are not readily available in my country and I am a Technician and I do not want to look like someone guessing, although your suggestion might be correct.

marcos4905
30th December, 2011, 05:46 AM
Behind Compressor (code 42), in the crankcase (Code 41). The resistance is 100 ohms,

mathura
30th December, 2011, 11:59 AM
Behind Compressor (code 42), in the crankcase (Code 41). The resistance is 100 ohms,

Resistance when measured for both sensors are 130 ohms each. Harness checked and proved ok. Should I still replace sensors.

rebel127
30th December, 2011, 01:40 PM
Resistance when measured for both sensors are 130 ohms each. Harness checked and proved ok. Should I still replace sensors.

Atleast remove both and check for metal chips or fuzz. I have found them to be impeeded by this. One of the most commen no start problems is the sensors?

amishmafia00
30th December, 2011, 08:57 PM
for me these sensors usually start acting up. they don't just go bad all at once. the last one that went bad the truck was out on the road and would not start. he waited for 10 or 15 minutes and the truck fired right up. if you have a code and a starting issue I would replace it

mathura
31st December, 2011, 12:44 PM
Thanks for your contributions, I will work on this job once more today and will let you know how it goes.

HELP ON ANOTHER JOB
Does anyone have a pin out diagram for DDEC 11 ECM. I need to also know if a DDEC 111 ECM can work on a Series 60 DDEC 11 engine.
Engine Model: 6067 WU60.

Thanks

Emgo
31st December, 2011, 02:05 PM
[ HELP ON ANOTHER JOB
Does anyone have a pin out diagram for DDEC 11 ECM. I need to also know if a DDEC 111 ECM can work on a Series 60 DDEC 11 engine.
Engine Model: 6067 WU60.

Thanks[/QUOTE]

Take a look this thread. http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/f166/ddec-ii-159487/index2.html
Here's the link for the wiring kit to go from DDEC II to III / IV http://www.ddcsn.com/cps/rde/xbcr/ddcsn/18SP546Rev.pdf

Emgo

mathura
1st January, 2012, 05:11 AM
Thank you so much Emgo.

ddmech
1st January, 2012, 06:26 AM
Mathura,a ddec 3 will plug up fine on a ddec 11 but you will have to change injector harness.DDEC2 is not long enough to plug up.Also srs tooth count on bull gear is 4 teeth off.DDEC!! also has 6 teeth on crancshaft but,ddec 3 has 36.

mathura
1st January, 2012, 07:22 AM
Mathura,a ddec 3 will plug up fine on a ddec 11 but you will have to change injector harness.DDEC2 is not long enough to plug up.Also srs tooth count on bull gear is 4 teeth off.DDEC!! also has 6 teeth on crancshaft but,ddec 3 has 36.

Please explain in more detail, because I have installed a DDEC 3 ECM on a DDEC 2 and engine fail to start.
Code 41 active and engine will not start.

crovmaster
1st January, 2012, 02:02 PM
HELP WITH CHANGE POWER AND TORQUE DETROIT MOTOR
PLEASE HELP.

I NEED INCREASE POWER TO TRUCK WITH DETROTI 06R1042847
ACTUALLY HAVE 500 HP 2110 RPM 1650 LBS, WICH PARAMETER I WILL CAN INCREASE.


tHANKS

mathura
2nd January, 2012, 04:14 AM
Still awaiting an answer my good friend DDMech

ddmech
2nd January, 2012, 04:24 AM
Check your pm friend.

ddmech
2nd January, 2012, 04:43 AM
I have never tried it but I believe if you use dct and change your crankshaft pulses from 36 t0 6 it will work also buddy.

Thecell
2nd January, 2012, 05:05 AM
HELP WITH CHANGE POWER AND TORQUE DETROIT MOTOR
PLEASE HELP.

I NEED INCREASE POWER TO TRUCK WITH DETROTI 06R1042847
ACTUALLY HAVE 500 HP 2110 RPM 1650 LBS, WICH PARAMETER I WILL CAN INCREASE.


tHANKS

What is your experience with any DD program. Need to know where to start.

hercamp
3rd January, 2012, 02:12 AM
in my experience ...not too much people has enough experience with dct or calterm here ......btw I know people that know a lot in cummins and detroits but work in increasy hp or torq from ecm is not a easy work...

I think u can start like all people did....upload cal file ....look into parameters like boi , and torq adjst etc etc

after that look into cal files are posted here and try to dessamble a cal file and past all parts.
easy way to make that u want is take a cal file with 500 hp or more and make a new cal file from that.
I know someone here say same ..but is the easy way..not all engines are same ,not all ecm and sensores are reads with same values into ram.

just try to works from cal files with good power and conevrt and test .

amishmafia00
4th January, 2012, 02:56 AM
What he said


:wink:

I have never tried it but I believe if you use dct and change your crankshaft pulses from 36 t0 6 it will work also buddy.

12345678910
4th January, 2012, 02:59 AM
:toilet:im working on a cal now for him to try should have done in a day or two we will see what he says :joyman:

Thecell
4th January, 2012, 03:00 AM
I agree with Hercamp....if you don't understand what you can damage, or you can't afford to blow up your engine, than slower is better.
Change little things first and only a little bit, then drive it, see what differences it makes...if the BOI ( you need to know what BOI means first, sorry don't know how much you know, no insult) is .08 then only change .07 or .09...then try.

This is the one time that LESS is better for you and your engine.

mathura
4th January, 2012, 12:06 PM
What he said


:wink:
I will let you know as soon as I work on this job, it is some distance away.

mathura
5th January, 2012, 08:48 AM
Just need to update. The owner decided to stay with the DDEC2 ECM which I rewired and engine started and working ok.
I have gotten a cal file from 12345678910, which I did not get to try, hopefully I am going to try this file later on the DDEC3 ECM.

Thanks to all those who contribute.

amishmafia00
5th January, 2012, 05:56 PM
I am working on a project and I need some help.
I am puting a ddec11 engine on a generator does anyone have a cal for a ddec11 generator? I want to see what is diferent to control rpm and droop

ddmech
5th January, 2012, 06:22 PM
I dont have a generator cal but have built many power units for sawmills and such.Im pretty sure the generators are hooked up the same way.Instead of running your throttle wire to limiting speed govener just run it the variable speed govener input.Select any rpm with zero droop.That is the way all power units I have seen were hooked up.Good luck buddy.

detroit747
5th February, 2012, 04:39 PM
Hi everyone just been having a read up on threads relating to DDCT i usually work with cummins engines and have not used DDCT before but have decided to read up on it and put some time into getting to know the program a little... just wanted to say thanks to all !!!. The info ive read here has been a big help but has also scrambled my brain a little lol.. I own a 2007 freightliner with a series 60 set at 500hp i want to raise it to 600 if possible can anyone help me with what i should do first???
I have a friend with a kenworth with the same engine at 600hp i was thinking i could take the calibration from his ecm and rework it if needed and put it into my ecm.. is this a good approach???? also LICKETY SPLIT you mention the DDEC IV could hold 4 calibrations with could be switched using dash mounted switches.... ive seen this in a freightliner that had 500 and 575hp calibrations does anyone know how these switches are wired? or if they are in the detroit DDECIV wiring digram?? the reason im wondering about this is because the truck is used for B Double work and single trailer work so sometimes its quite heavy sometime very light so it would be handy??

looking forword to being able to contribute sometime but everyone seems a long way ahead of me lol...

sptecnico82
6th February, 2012, 05:18 AM
Hi everyone just been having a read up on threads relating to DDCT i usually work with cummins engines and have not used DDCT before but have decided to read up on it and put some time into getting to know the program a little... just wanted to say thanks to all !!!. The info ive read here has been a big help but has also scrambled my brain a little lol.. I own a 2007 freightliner with a series 60 set at 500hp i want to raise it to 600 if possible can anyone help me with what i should do first???
I have a friend with a kenworth with the same engine at 600hp i was thinking i could take the calibration from his ecm and rework it if needed and put it into my ecm.. is this a good approach???? also LICKETY SPLIT you mention the DDEC IV could hold 4 calibrations with could be switched using dash mounted switches.... ive seen this in a freightliner that had 500 and 575hp calibrations does anyone know how these switches are wired? or if they are in the detroit DDECIV wiring digram?? the reason im wondering about this is because the truck is used for B Double work and single trailer work so sometimes its quite heavy sometime very light so it would be handy??

looking forword to being able to contribute sometime but everyone seems a long way ahead of me lol...

You have a 2007 DDEC IV?

detroit747
7th February, 2012, 06:07 PM
yes thats right.

Emgo
7th February, 2012, 09:29 PM
yes thats right.

A 2007 DDEC IV would be really unusual. I think that's why sptecnico82A ask if it was DDEC IV. A 2007 model should be a 14 Liter EGR engine with DDEC V. Let's make sure what you have so we can get you the correct information. I don't mean to say that you don't know what you have, it's just very unusual.

Emgo

sptecnico82
8th February, 2012, 06:33 AM
OK detroit747. I will look for what you asking for... but... DDEC IV only stores 3 cals. You can make 4 or 5 arrangements with those cals, but only have 3.

Dieselhawk
10th February, 2012, 11:39 PM
A 2007 DDEC IV would be really unusual. I think that's why sptecnico82A ask if it was DDEC IV. A 2007 model should be a 14 Liter EGR engine with DDEC V. Let's make sure what you have so we can get you the correct information. I don't mean to say that you don't know what you have, it's just very unusual.

Emgo

Here in Australia DDEC IV non-egr was available up until about 2008. In fact you can still buy brand new DDEC IV HK62 engines from the dealer here. We didn't require the emission controls here. We then skipped straight to DDEC VI. We only had a couple of DDEC V engines in the country as demos for EGR. DDEC IV engines for Australia are built on the industrial production line.

Emgo
11th February, 2012, 03:47 AM
Here in Australia DDEC IV non-egr was available up until about 2008. In fact you can still buy brand new DDEC IV HK62 engines from the dealer here. We didn't require the emission controls here. We then skipped straight to DDEC VI. We only had a couple of DDEC V engines in the country as demos for EGR. DDEC IV engines for Australia are built on the industrial production line.

Dieselhawk,
Thanks for letting me know and I appoligize to detroit747 for my ignorance. I'll get a screen shot of DRS where you enable discrete inputs under the ratings tab ASAP. This will allow you to install a remote switch to change ratings.

Emgo

sptecnico82
11th February, 2012, 06:17 PM
Yes, it looks like the DDEC IV can have a HP switch... But I need someone of my clients to be able to make a test. In another order, I would wonder if someone from Australia can share DDEC IV cals for those of us that live in countries without so much emissions controls. Like me. I will be very thankfull if someone can do it.

:ridinghorse: :hmmmm2:

Emgo
12th February, 2012, 01:48 AM
detroit747,
If sptecnico82 gets the cal he needs and if it's possible with your engine here's how you go about installing a remote switch using DRS. Open DRS then "Update Customer Calibration", then under the ratings tab select "Discrete Inputs". Then go to the "Digital & Temperature Inputs" tab and select a couple of unused pins on the Vehicle side of the ECM Harness. You might want to take a look and see if you have any unused pins already wired to the inside of your cab (that could help determine which pins you activate), if not you will have to run wires to your dash. You switch the input to ground to activate the desired HP setting. I would used a rotary switch to prevent accidentally switching on 2 at the same.

detroit747, your pin numbers will be different form the ones in screen shots because they are from a DDECV engine



sptecnico82, If I have given incorrect or incomplete information here please correct me.

Emgo

detroit747
12th February, 2012, 02:02 AM
No problems ive got a ddec IV cal here i save this morning from a truck the guy was trying to tell me the program has been modified so the truck produces 640hp but it looks standard to me i have another i saved also this morning from a ddec IV thats never been touched its 500hp

detroit747
12th February, 2012, 02:07 AM
Thanks a lot sptechnico82 and emgo for your help the trucks away today but i'll have a look tomorrow and set the switch up have to try to find a rating to use with it

sptecnico82
12th February, 2012, 07:24 AM
detroit747,
If sptecnico82 gets the cal he needs and if it's possible with your engine here's how you go about installing a remote switch using DRS. Open DRS then "Update Customer Calibration", then under the ratings tab select "Discrete Inputs". Then go to the "Digital & Temperature Inputs" tab and select a couple of unused pins on the Vehicle side of the ECM Harness. You might want to take a look and see if you have any unused pins already wired to the inside of your cab (that could help determine which pins you activate), if not you will have to run wires to your dash. You switch the input to ground to activate the desired HP setting. I would used a rotary switch to prevent accidentally switching on 2 at the same.

detroit747, your pin numbers will be different form the ones in screen shots because they are from a DDECV engine



sptecnico82, If I have given incorrect or incomplete information here please correct me.

Emgo

In theory it is correct. Just that i prefer to use DCT, but it will work I guess. :congrats:
I just have a doubt about the discrete input... I guess the switch will selec the rating 1 or the rating 2. Depends the switch input.

sptecnico82
12th February, 2012, 08:08 AM
No problems ive got a ddec IV cal here i save this morning from a truck the guy was trying to tell me the program has been modified so the truck produces 640hp but it looks standard to me i have another i saved also this morning from a ddec IV thats never been touched its 500hp

Thanks friend, but i think that the one that says 640 is 500. I opened with DCT and said 1850 lb/ft 500 BHP. The two says the same. But the 500 BHP cals that I have says 1650 lb/ft and 500 BHP. Then i thik the cals shared are more strong in torque. By the way. They are from 14L non EGR engines. Did it?. But anyway, is great to have it.

detroit747
12th February, 2012, 02:08 PM
here is one more from a 14L non EGR ddec IV...

does anyone have anything higher than 575hp for a non EGR DDEC IV??

trucks
13th February, 2012, 11:07 AM
No problems ive got a ddec IV cal here i save this morning from a truck the guy was trying to tell me the program has been modified so the truck produces 640hp but it looks standard to me i have another i saved also this morning from a ddec IV thats never been touched its 500hp
Look at the pw fudge factor,the guy tweaked it a little for more fuel.Lazy tuning if you ask me.

detroit747
13th February, 2012, 11:32 AM
yeah he did i just compared it to the standard 500 cal..
we are fairly behind in Australia when it comes to detroit tuning everything is pretty much left standard.. anyone know who i should talk to about a calibration?? also id like to learn what all these different term mean and what effect they have when these value are changed is there any manuals or literature for this program out there ?? or is it a matter of trial and error?

ddmech
15th February, 2012, 12:50 AM
I know this is off topic a bit but I didnt want to start a new thread for 1 question.This is for all you freightliner detroit gurus out there.I have a 05 columbia,ddec 5 in the shop.If youpower the ecm from a seperat power souce it cranks and runs fine.When you touch any ground,positive,frame or anything to do with the truck itself it will kill the engine and give injectors 1-6 shorted to ground.All input is welcome.Thanks to all.

hanzem evr
15th February, 2012, 06:28 AM
My friend Please help , How Can I enable The (PTO throtle )
in detroit S60 year 2007 , which software i use is it DDECR or DDDL ??? is it customer level or highest .

detroit747
16th February, 2012, 06:14 PM
what voltage are you getting to the ecm through the truck harness?? when you say touch and ground , positive do you mean connect to the ecm ??

hercamp
16th February, 2012, 06:59 PM
My friend Please help , How Can I enable The (PTO throtle )
in detroit S60 year 2007 , which software i use is it DDECR or DDDL ??? is it customer level or highest .


use ddrs ...activation posted before are factory level.

if u just want to able pto go to inputs and able in the input number u get from connector of ecm or wiring.

hercamp
16th February, 2012, 07:03 PM
Thanks friend, but i think that the one that says 640 is 500. I opened with DCT and said 1850 lb/ft 500 BHP. The two says the same. But the 500 BHP cals that I have says 1650 lb/ft and 500 BHP. Then i thik the cals shared are more strong in torque. By the way. They are from 14L non EGR engines. Did it?. But anyway, is great to have it.

rating value is just a number ,u can create a calibration file with 1000 hp ...and that value of torq and BHP never change.

non egr cal files posted are for special 60s that works in some countries where dealer need compensate altitud..

if u try cal..u will see no turbo vnt and non egr will not works normally with a cal file builded in for other ecm/vnt/egr values..
.

Juanincho
24th February, 2012, 04:54 PM
Hi everybody, i was thinking about the fact than the australian engines are different from the americans, mainly in the emmissions controls, so to all the australian guys at this thread, would you post some cals from australian engines? (from all ddec's) so we can check the differences and maybe we can improve performance. Someone of you have a cal for a ddec 5 australian engine with vgt? It would be interesting. Thanks in advance to all of you guys !!:tee:

Biggame520
23rd March, 2012, 03:03 AM
Does any one know if we can use a DDEC 4 NGAS and program to run with diesel engine??

ddmech
23rd March, 2012, 03:12 AM
No,It definatly wont work friend.Must be diesel cal.

Dieselhawk
26th March, 2012, 11:51 AM
Hi everybody, i was thinking about the fact than the australian engines are different from the americans, mainly in the emmissions controls, so to all the australian guys at this thread, would you post some cals from australian engines? (from all ddec's) so we can check the differences and maybe we can improve performance. Someone of you have a cal for a ddec 5 australian engine with vgt? It would be interesting. Thanks in advance to all of you guys !!:tee:

In Australia we didn't get DDEC 5 we went straight from DDEC 4 to 6 around 3 years ago. There were only about 2 or 3 imported as demos before the DDEC 6 arrived and I'm guessing these would have had US cals.

Belefronte
26th March, 2012, 03:38 PM
if I have a new ECM, how can I programm it? I tried with many cal but appear that the cal doesn't compatible with the version

the new ECM is a DDEC IV

jackalfa
26th March, 2012, 09:11 PM
Please, someone has a way to find out the engine family of this engine?

06R0488821

Thanks ion advance

Emgo
27th March, 2012, 12:51 PM
I use the on line parts catalog.

Detroit Diesel - eParts Catalog (http://ecatalog.detroitdiesel.com/SERIES60/CATALOG.ASP)

It works best with Internet Explorer.

Take a look at the attached photo.

Emgo

jackalfa
27th March, 2012, 05:12 PM
Thanks Emgo, I tried already but I can't find the engine family number or serial. The model is 6067BK60 as ecatalog says.
Please, Can you point where in the ecatalog is this information?

thanks a lot friend...

Emgo
28th March, 2012, 01:30 PM
Thanks Emgo, I tried already but I can't find the engine family number or serial. The model is 6067BK60 as ecatalog says.
Please, Can you point where in the ecatalog is this information?

thanks a lot friend...

I have noticed that for example an 06R0 engine means 6 cylinder series 60 but it doesn't indicated the displacement 11.1, 12.7 or 14. If you have an engine serial number take a look at the piston kit in the EPC it will state the displacement of that engine. Maybe someone has a better way. That's all I got.

Emgo

ddmech
29th March, 2012, 02:45 AM
Look at your model numbers.6067mk for example.
The fith letter tells it all.
12.7.........g,m,b
11.1.........w
14...........h

This seems to be the case with everyone I have seen.

jackalfa
29th March, 2012, 10:52 AM
Thanks emgo and ddtech, a friend ask me if I can find the "family engine number". He needs to file a report to some agency. Usually this information is in the sticker on the valve cover but this truck (and others) don't have it, is missing. The truck is not in working condition, so it can not taken to DD or Freightliner so they can issue a new sticker. DD or Freightliner requires that the truck have to be in their place to issue a new sticker (we are located about 150 miles from the nearest dealer). Is why I was asking for this help here in DK. http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/f166/caterpillar-factory-password-keygen-152226/index54.html#post1502046
Regards...

Deuceswild
29th March, 2012, 09:29 PM
if I have a new ECM, how can I programm it? I tried with many cal but appear that the cal doesn't compatible with the version

the new ECM is a DDEC IV

I'm curious if you're having the same problem I do. Is your ecm blank and you are trying to get a program in there so it's more then just a $1500 paperweight?

Dieselhawk
1st April, 2012, 01:58 AM
Thanks emgo and ddtech, a friend ask me if I can find the "family engine number". He needs to file a report to some agency. Usually this information is in the sticker on the valve cover but this truck (and others) don't have it, is missing. The truck is not in working condition, so it can not taken to DD or Freightliner so they can issue a new sticker. DD or Freightliner requires that the truck have to be in their place to issue a new sticker (we are located about 150 miles from the nearest dealer). Is why I was asking for this help here in DK. http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/f166/caterpillar-factory-password-keygen-152226/index54.html#post1502046
Regards...

Is your engine a S60 or C15?! As you have posted in a Cat and also a Detroit forum? The engine family numbers on a S60 are the 6N4M, 6N4D, 6N4C numbers which can be found in the engine configuration info when using DDDL. These numbers have never been printed on the rocker cover stickers though. I think you need to get more specific info from your friend.

jackalfa
1st April, 2012, 08:41 AM
Is your engine a S60 or C15?! As you have posted in a Cat and also a Detroit forum? The engine family numbers on a S60 are the 6N4M, 6N4D, 6N4C numbers which can be found in the engine configuration info when using DDDL. These numbers have never been printed on the rocker cover stickers though. I think you need to get more specific info from your friend.


I have the problem with a few trucks, some S60 and one C-15.
Thanks...

Emgo
1st April, 2012, 02:50 PM
I've watched these this videos many times. I wonder how close the HP and torque numbers are to being real.

SIZE MATTERS - Semi Truck Drift Gymkhana Feature - YouTube

There's a good shot of the engine in this video.

Mike Ryan - stunt driving Freightliner - YouTube

Emgo

(Sorry to interrupt, jackalfa)

hercamp
1st April, 2012, 05:42 PM
WOOW, A BIG ONE.....

mang5087
14th April, 2012, 01:57 PM
please detroit experts tell me what
injector code numbers to use for
12L DDEC III for best fuel mileage.
thanks in advance

ddmech
14th April, 2012, 06:49 PM
I have had better luck with 75s than anything friend.But opinions vary.

autotuning
10th May, 2012, 08:13 PM
Hi all
can anyone please help me with the files for the following ecm please,

The engine serial I have is 06R0968125
ENGINE MODEL 6067HK62
This is a 14.0L 500bhp 2110 rpm

Thanks in advance.

amishmafia00
12th May, 2012, 03:23 AM
http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/f166/drs-6-ddec-v-files-173317/

Your question can be answered here



Hi all
can anyone please help me with the files for the following ecm please,

The engine serial I have is 06R0968125
ENGINE MODEL 6067HK62
This is a 14.0L 500bhp 2110 rpm

Thanks in advance.

autotuning
13th May, 2012, 10:23 AM
Thanks, i have ooked there but this specific calibration file does not seem to be there unless of course i have missed it?
i will look again.

amishmafia00
15th May, 2012, 04:07 AM
If it's not there you have to ask for it and someone will try to get it for you. Be patient these guys do us a huge favor by getting files for us. some times it can take a little while

autotuning
15th May, 2012, 07:05 AM
If it's not there you have to ask for it and someone will try to get it for you. Be patient these guys do us a huge favor by getting files for us. some times it can take a little while

That is exactly what i did but maybe in the wrong section?
i have moved it to your recommended thread and will wait for a response
Thanks

mathura
17th June, 2012, 05:05 PM
I have a no start probelm with a Detroit 60 series engine mounted in a Freightliner.
It is throwing fault code 42 too few SRS (missing SRS), replaced SRS sensor, Checked wiring to sensor, checked power supply and ignition power. Everything OK but engine refueses to start, however it runs on starting fluid. When barring the engine it seems kind of free, little effort is required.

What else should I check. Engine cranking at 175-185 rpm, batteries new and all grounds good.

Thanks

amishmafia00
18th June, 2012, 01:33 AM
is the code 42 fixed or is it still present?

mathura
18th June, 2012, 01:45 AM
is the code 42 fixed or is it still present?

When starting the engine the code is active but if you turn off the ignition it becomes inactive, as soon as you start cranking it becomes active

ddmech
18th June, 2012, 03:32 AM
Check your bull gear Mathura.I had exactly the same issue on one.In the end I found the bull gear had pushed off of the hub.The srs sensor gap had increased to the point
it wouldnt read the signal.

mathura
18th June, 2012, 05:32 AM
Check your bull gear Mathura.I had exactly the same issue on one.In the end I found the bull gear had pushed off of the hub.The srs sensor gap had increased to the point
it wouldnt read the signal.

Thanks for sharing your expierence ddmech, I was thinking of checking the timing gears but I need to be sure before I make this decision

je69
21st June, 2012, 01:18 AM
hello dk friens ddmech its ok take the accesori puley gear turn the engine into you se the timming referens pin on tha bull gear check it maibe mub thath hapen to my I hope that help god luck sory my ingles

mathura
21st June, 2012, 10:53 PM
Check your bull gear Mathura.I had exactly the same issue on one.In the end I found the bull gear had pushed off of the hub.The srs sensor gap had increased to the point
it wouldnt read the signal.

You are one Master ddmech, it was exactly what you told me the gear has moved on the hub and touched the front cover. It showed signs on the gear rubbing on the cover.

Thanks so much for your help Friend

ddmech
22nd June, 2012, 04:56 AM
Glad I could help Mathura.Have a great weekend friend!

jackalfa
22nd June, 2012, 05:38 PM
Please, I have a request again from a good friend who asked me to ask here in DK, if maybe someone can help me with an engine family number. There is not sticker in the truck engine (is where this number is located), he need this number to some do some paperwork process.
For example, the engine 06R0541806 have this engine family number XDDXH12.7EGL.
The engine serial number, from where he needs the engine family, is this one: 06R0445211

thanks friends in advance for your help and time to this request.

mathura
29th June, 2012, 10:51 PM
I need to change some parameters in a DDEC IV ECM, but it is password protected, I tried 0000 but passsword is wrong. What can I do to get around password.
I am using DDDl 6.01

Thanks

ddmech
29th June, 2012, 10:56 PM
The only way to get in is to call detroit for the backdoor code or use dct to look at it.

mathura
29th June, 2012, 11:24 PM
The only way to get in is to call detroit for the backdoor code or use dct to look at it.

Thanks DDMech
I will try dct, was not sure what I had to do

mathura
30th June, 2012, 04:08 PM
Need some Help
Mechanic changed injector sleeves because fuel was entering the cooling system, he assembled rockerarm without doing any adjustments to the injectors, only adjusted valves.
Now the engine is smoking very black. Could it be that the injectors needs to be adjusted.The owner has asked me to look at the job so I want to be prepared.

Which is the best method to adjust the injectors:
A- Using the magnetic base dial indicator and 3/4 turn method
B- Using the height guage method

ddmech
30th June, 2012, 09:18 PM
If it is n3 injectors use dial indicator.
All others use height gauge.

mathura
30th June, 2012, 10:07 PM
If it is n3 injectors use dial indicator.
All others use height gauge.

OK I figure that out after reading the manual once again because I am dealing with a 99 series 60 engine. Model is 6067MK60.(N2 injectors)
However after adjusting the injectors to 81mm (they were slightly lower about 1mm), the engine is still smoking execessively black.

Before the injector sleeves were replaced the engine was fine. Is it possible that the sleeves that were installed is creating the probelm. The mechanic did not remove the cylinder head from the engine when he did this job but according to the shop manual I see that the head should be removed to do such a job.

amishmafia00
1st July, 2012, 02:28 AM
if this is a 99 engine the head must be removed to replace the injector tubes. removing the injector tube with the head on the engine would most likely mean that the rolled over part of the tube fell into the cylinder. if he did not remove this before firing the engine it could have damaged the turbine blades on the turbo. i'm pretty sure that when an injector tube is installed it is first trimmed to length and then rolled over. i do not know of a tool to do this on the engine. maybe the unrolled end of the tube is blocking the injector spray holes and causing the fuel to drip into the cylinder rather than spray.

alsop
1st July, 2012, 05:57 AM
Need some Help
Mechanic changed injector sleeves because fuel was entering the cooling system, he assembled rockerarm without doing any adjustments to the injectors, only adjusted valves.
Now the engine is smoking very black. Could it be that the injectors needs to be adjusted.The owner has asked me to look at the job so I want to be prepared.

Which is the best method to adjust the injectors:
A- Using the magnetic base dial indicator and 3/4 turn method
B- Using the height guage method
Black smoke is un-burned fuel/over fueling. If the injectors were changed and are electronic you have to calibrate using the number stamped on each injector and send to ECM with DDDL. Injector heigth can be fairly far off with no effect. The ECM will compensate for the timing. Make sure the restricted fitting for return fuel was not replaced with non restricted fitting. It should have a number stamped on it. Do a cylinder cutout with DDDL and find what cylinder is the problem or all the injectors. Boost pressure should be around 18 on a stall, using the diagnostic screen in DDDL. Attached are two series 60 training links. EGR can also throw you off if not working properly.
https://www.rapidshare.com/files/461456486/Series_60_Training.rar
https://www.rapidshare.com/files/2330758175/SERIES_60_EGR.rar

mathura
1st July, 2012, 12:24 PM
if this is a 99 engine the head must be removed to replace the injector tubes. removing the injector tube with the head on the engine would most likely mean that the rolled over part of the tube fell into the cylinder. if he did not remove this before firing the engine it could have damaged the turbine blades on the turbo. i'm pretty sure that when an injector tube is installed it is first trimmed to length and then rolled over. i do not know of a tool to do this on the engine. maybe the unrolled end of the tube is blocking the injector spray holes and causing the fuel to drip into the cylinder rather than spray.

Thanks for the response, I will check turbine blades but my feeling is that the injector sleeves is somehow affecting the spray pattern. What I noticed after removing the injectors is that Nos 1&2 sleeve seating area is shiny clean copper surface while the others are black as though exhaust gas is reaching it.

I plan to remove head and inspect but I want to be sure that the injector sleeves is the probelm because logically this was the only thing done and the smoking started.

I did cut out test on engine to see if it is a particular cylinder but all are behaving the same way and you cannot run engine for more than 5 mins because the smoke is so heavy that I might get a visit from the EPA personnel.

mathura
2nd July, 2012, 01:34 AM
Checked turbine blades and found to be good, any other suggestions are welcome before I pull Head.

alsop
2nd July, 2012, 04:34 AM
Checked turbine blades and found to be good, any other suggestions are welcome before I pull Head.
The only other thing would be a compression test if you have the set-up. This will make sure the cylinders were not washed down and destroyed the liners and pistons. I think your in for a head removal as mentioned in the other posts, it's impossible to replace injector tubes with out removing the head and machine to fit with the special tools. Good luck.

mathura
2nd July, 2012, 12:48 PM
The only other thing would be a compression test if you have the set-up. This will make sure the cylinders were not washed down and destroyed the liners and pistons. I think your in for a head removal as mentioned in the other posts, it's impossible to replace injector tubes with out removing the head and machine to fit with the special tools. Good luck.

Thanks for your suggestions
I did check return line and the restricited fitting is in place, however I doubt that it may be a compression issue because after injector sleever were replaced the Truck did not drive just start a few times because the smoke is real excessive.

I will pull Head tomorrow and let you know my findings.

Dieselhawk
3rd July, 2012, 11:57 AM
Amishmafia has the correct answer. I have seen someone do this first hand. The injector tubes have to be reamed and flanged with the correct tools or the fuel will simply dribble down onto the piston. This is done with the same method used on the 2 stroke Detroits. Hopefully the old tube flanges haven't done any damage.

mathura
3rd July, 2012, 01:02 PM
Amishmafia has the correct answer. I have seen someone do this first hand. The injector tubes have to be reamed and flanged with the correct tools or the fuel will simply dribble down onto the piston. This is done with the same method used on the 2 stroke Detroits. Hopefully the old tube flanges haven't done any damage.

Thank you for your contribution, very much appreciated.
I will remove head today

mathura
4th July, 2012, 10:25 PM
I removed head only to find exactly as I was told by Amishmafia, the injector tubes are protuding 2.5 mm.This is definitely the reason for the probelm.


I plan to have them flared and reamed.

Thanks

cholmes729
4th July, 2012, 10:37 PM
I had a JA customer of mine tell me he was going to try to do the injector sleeves without removing the head.

The special tool detroit has requires you to torque the sleeve down to a specified torque, and the head has to be off to do this.

I told him not to do it without removing the head, plus I advised him since it had 600,000 miles on it, It would not hurt to be checked for cracks, they crack alot on the intake side. Well, EGR heads do anyways.

He end up pulling it and sending it to a machine shop.

amishmafia00
4th July, 2012, 11:09 PM
newer engines (2003+ i think) have injector tubes that thread in. i think this could be done with the head on but I think that they say to check injector tip protrusion after replacing.

cholmes729
4th July, 2012, 11:14 PM
newer engines (2003+ i think) have injector tubes that thread in. i think this could be done with the head on but I think that they say to check injector tip protrusion after replacing.


If the engine has n3 injectors, the sleeves do screw in and out, I have never had to check injector tip protrusion, it is set. You screw the cups in, torque, and move on. They are super easy.

You can look in the injector bore, if they are stainless, they screw out, if they are copper, they are pressed in.

The tool is not expensive, its about $80 USD

mathura
23rd July, 2012, 01:34 AM
UPDATE

Well the engine is now working fine once more after I flared the the injectors sleeves.
The owner is very happy

Thanks guys for your contribution especially AMISHMAFIA

Emgo
6th September, 2012, 03:06 PM
Will changing the fuel PW fudge factor effect the estimated fuel mileage that the Prodriver shows?

Thanks
Emgo

Emgo
10th September, 2012, 07:34 PM
I'm now able to answer my question. If you add 10% fuel with the Fudge Factor it causes the Prodriver to indicate, roughly 10% more fuel mileage than you're actually getting. A 20% percent increase in the Fudge Factor will cause the Prodriver to display roughly a 20% increase in fuel mileage over the actual mileage.

Leaving fudge factor at the original number and doing block offsets on the Pulse Width table seems to maintain the accuracy of the Prodriver readings.

If you are monitoring Instantaneous Fuel Mileage with DDL the same applies to it.

Emgo

Underpsi
14th September, 2012, 08:07 PM
Anyone had any success advancing timing on a DDEC5? Trying to get just a little more advance for some better mileage. Not sure what table needs to be modified I see many BOI tables. Thanks

Emgo
17th September, 2012, 01:16 PM
Anyone had any success advancing timing on a DDEC5? Trying to get just a little more advance for some better mileage. Not sure what table needs to be modified I see many BOI tables. Thanks

Have you tried Crazy60's air_temp offset?? Start reading the DCT thread about here
http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/f166/detroit-calibration-tool-112226/index61.html

Emgo

fncisco
28th September, 2012, 05:57 AM
just multiply injection timming for 1.20... a lot of power before emision limit...

han2542
1st October, 2012, 12:17 AM
could some help me with some information of how to reprogram an ecm for a detroit series 50 i think its 2003 ddec4 but im not sure the ecm was blanked by some one who didnt know what he as doing and now i would like to get it fixxed but dont know how and a wiring spec could also help because i think that the wiring from the ecm to the batteries was installed backwards for what i could see it only has 1 yellow wire and 2 white wires one of them has a fuse holder which i think is positive but i am not sure any help would be great
thanks in advance :hmmmm:

Poptest
3rd October, 2012, 08:07 AM
Hello DK,

Please advise me on the required software (DDRS or DRS) to program a DDEC 3 ECM. I was able to buy a used ECM to which needs to be programmed to a specific engine serial number.

I noticed that this thread is more into HP upgrading of the Series 60 through modifications of the engine and the ECM program which I have no experience whatsoever.

This is my first attempt in doing a Detroit ECM reprogram. So I am now reading DK posts on Series 60. Slowly I hope to get there.

Many thanks to DK brothers who contribute their knowlwdge.

ddmech
3rd October, 2012, 09:25 PM
If you have the old ecm,is better to pull calfrom it and put into new one with dct.If it is blank,which it shouldnt be if it is used,you will need drs to reprogram.

Poptest
4th October, 2012, 01:51 AM
If you have the old ecm, is better to pull cal from it and put into new one with dct. If it is blank,which it shouldnt be if it is used,you will need drs to reprogram.

The old ecm is dead, water inside. I have used ecm with different cal, has to be reprogrammed for target engine s/n.

What is the difference between DDRS, DRS, and DCT?

Thanks much for the asvise ddmecm.

ddmech
4th October, 2012, 04:15 AM
DDRS is for ddec 6.No good for you.Drs programs a base cal and parameter cal for certain ser. #.Dct will change all parameters after base cal is initialy flashed into a blank ecm.The problem is if getting the right cal for your application with drs.On a used ecm I have hundreds of dct cals for freight,western star,ect.I usually use one of those then modify it to fit my app.

Poptest
4th October, 2012, 03:44 PM
DDRS is for ddec 6.No good for you.Drs programs a base cal and parameter cal for certain ser. #.Dct will change all parameters after base cal is initialy flashed into a blank ecm.The problem is if getting the right cal for your application with drs.On a used ecm I have hundreds of dct cals for freight,western star,ect.I usually use one of those then modify it to fit my app.

Thanks again. I will install DRS and try to reprogram. Please share calibration for this IH truck.

VIN# IHSRKD2R6NH409267
ENGINE DDEC3-S60.12.7L
ENGINE SN: 06R0053768
ENGINE MODEL: 6067WK60

Thanks in advance...

Emgo
4th October, 2012, 04:32 PM
Poptest,
Before you start the reprogramming process make sure your computer is connected to power and your vehicle battery is good. The reprogramming with DRS takes about 20 minutes, if you loose battery power or your computer shuts down for some reason during that time you could have a bricked ECM.

Emgo

Poptest
4th October, 2012, 05:17 PM
Poptest,
Before you start the reprogramming process make sure your computer is connected to power and your vehicle battery is good. The reprogramming with DRS takes about 20 minutes, if you loose battery power or your computer shuts down for some reason during that time you could have a bricked ECM.

Emgo

Thanks for the tip Emgo. I didn't know it can take this long.

I've just installed DDEC Reprogramming System Ver 6.20. Is this the same as DRS?

ddmech
4th October, 2012, 07:48 PM
On the DDrs 6 and ddec 5 files thread there was a bunch of cals for drs.Yes the 6.20 is the version you need.

Poptest
7th October, 2012, 04:18 PM
I need to change VIN and engine serial number inside DDEC3 ecm, and disable Jake brake......no other program modification necessary. Please advise me on what software is safest to use for this work. I now have DRS and DCT installed, but never tried them on an ecm.

I've read horror stories on blanked ecms. I'm a newbie on Detroit programming, and have to admit.....quite scared to kill an ecm.

Thanks a lot.

hercamp
8th October, 2012, 12:57 PM
only dct can do that, not other .... u first need upload original .

check for some tips on cal tool coments

Emgo
9th October, 2012, 01:51 PM
I need to change VIN and engine serial number inside DDEC3 ecm, and disable Jake brake......no other program modification necessary. Please advise me on what software is safest to use for this work. I now have DRS and DCT installed, but never tried them on an ecm.

I've read horror stories on blanked ecms. I'm a newbie on Detroit programming, and have to admit.....quite scared to kill an ecm.

Thanks a lot.

Poptest,
Here's a quick DCT how to. I wasn't hooked up to an ECM so the Com Button or Communication Button doesn't show up on my screen shots (it's beside the Diagnostic button). Click on the button and select upload, most likely the software will ask you to switch off the ING and retry because the ECM is not in Boot Mode. It takes about a minute for the software to copy the calibration from your ECM. Once the cal is loaded it's a good ideal to save a copy of it by right clicking the Calibration Manger. Now drag the Identification folder to the right panel and change the necessary numbers (picture 1).

To disable the Jake Inputs drag the Digital Inputs folder on the right pane and select No Function from the drop down menu for the related inputs (see picture 2, upper red arrows are my mistake)

To disable the Jake Outputs drag the Digital Outputs folder on the right pane and select No Function from the drop down menu for the related outputs (see picture 3)

You'll Notice an asterisk beside the folders that have changed parameters.

It's a good ideal to save a copy of your modified Cal.

Using the Com button or right click the Cal name and select down load and the modified calibration will be sent the ECM, the download only takes a minute or so. Do not remove any connection or power until you see the download successful message.
After you receive the successful message turn the Ing. off and you are ready to go.

These are the main steps, I'm writing this from my memory so I may not have every word correct, but I'm sure you'll be able to understand once you get started. Just remember keep good power to the vehicle and computer, and do not disconnect anything while uploading or downloading.

If I left out anything someone jump in and help.

Emgo

Poptest
10th October, 2012, 03:19 AM
Hello Emgo.....Thank you for sharing all these information/screenshots. They still look Greek to me. But I'm sure, your post will guide me when I get the chance to try out DCT.

chamberlain31
14th November, 2012, 06:53 PM
I tryed to take my test ecm and program it with a off road engine cal and it came up with an error, it said i need type "h" interface. does anyone know what this means? i figured i could program with same stuff as on highway but i must be wrong??

carlosramospoma
15th November, 2012, 08:17 PM
[QUOTE=chamberlain31;1767163]I tryed to take my test ecm and program it with a off road engine cal and it came up with an error, it said i need type "h" interface. does anyone know what this means? i figured i could program with same stuff as on highway but i must be wrong??[/Q
hello friend please can you help with calibration for the DRS for Detroit Series 60 decIV 12 liters engine number O6R1036641 one 500HP Torque 1650 lbs

je69
19th November, 2012, 05:30 PM
hello DK friends I need calibration for ddc IV serial 06r0598340 apreciate you help thanks on advans

wallypw
14th December, 2012, 02:43 AM
hello DK friends I need calibration for serial number 06R0788255 and 06R0895535 aapreciate you help thanks

Underpsi
20th December, 2012, 03:30 AM
Trying to put a delay on the jake so that when the pedal is lifted to shift it doesn't come on instantly.

Only thing I can find in the engine brakes folder is jake_turnoff_delay but by the sounds of it, it does the opposite of what I'm looking to do. Anybody know if its possible to make that change and put maybe half to a one second delay?

sptecnico82
20th December, 2012, 05:48 AM
Why dont you use service brake instead?
The jake brake only will work with the brake pedal pressed.

Underpsi
20th December, 2012, 02:46 PM
Nice to have to jake come on coasting down a hill without using the brakes.

Personally I don't have an issue shutting off the switch on the dash when I'm going through gears but a driver of mine was looking for the delay

sptecnico82
21st December, 2012, 05:08 AM
:trytofly: Well i guess for obvious security reasons, that kind of function does not exist... tell to him: "Press the clutch to go through gears if you dont like to use the jake switch". :p

wallypw
22nd December, 2012, 09:56 PM
hello DK friends I need calibration for serial number 06R0788255 and 06R0895535 aapreciate you help thanks

luidgi07
27th January, 2013, 10:57 PM
I have a my problem to read it looks blocked by a computer in dash i tried to unpluged it doesn't work any idea where to bypass it

mathura
28th January, 2013, 08:56 PM
How do I get pass for DDEC 111, the one that I am working on I need to disable the idle shutdown but passwork is required. Any way of getting around that

I am using DDDL 6.4

Thanks

rebel127
28th January, 2013, 09:25 PM
Did you try 0000

mathura
29th January, 2013, 12:28 AM
Did you try 0000

Yes I did but it does not work

Thanks

rebel127
29th January, 2013, 12:46 AM
Then you will have to go in with DCT and change them to 0's

torqueman
29th January, 2013, 02:53 AM
How do I get pass for DDEC 111, the one that I am working on I need to disable the idle shutdown but passwork is required. Any way of getting around that

I am using DDDL 6.4

Thanks

Bro,
Do it with Dct.go to dct open open calibration then,go to customer changeable options,go to customer passwords,change all parameters to 48,48,48,48 and then download calibration again and save all data.

thats it

ddtech
29th January, 2013, 04:22 AM
can i please get file for 06R0751821 thanks

rebel127
29th January, 2013, 06:10 AM
ddtech here ya go

whalla
30th January, 2013, 05:05 AM
hello to all i am looking for a calibration for a ddec3 ecm to run on a ddec2 engine

sptecnico82
30th January, 2013, 03:27 PM
hello to all i am looking for a calibration for a ddec3 ecm to run on a ddec2 engine

Post your request here:

http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/f166/dct-users-316992/

ddtech
31st January, 2013, 02:31 AM
ddtech here ya go

thanks bud , do u have the .o2b file type , this way i can reprogram the ecm with ddec reprogramming system

Biggame520
1st February, 2013, 06:14 AM
Here All:

I have a DDEC 3 with serial # 06R0348378 wtih 500HP that I need a file for. Also this is my first time trying to flash a ecm. I have reprogramming software but I do not know where to place the file so that it will be detected when I click Program ECM. Please help and thanks in advance.

sptecnico82
1st February, 2013, 03:42 PM
Here All:

I have a DDEC 3 with serial # 06R0348378 wtih 500HP that I need a file for. Also this is my first time trying to flash a ecm. I have reprogramming software but I do not know where to place the file so that it will be detected when I click Program ECM. Please help and thanks in advance.

Run the DRS, then copy the file in the folder usually C:/Detroit Diesel/Reprogramation System/Data or C:/Detroit Diesel/Reprogramation System/Unit, I cant remember so well... then you can flash the ECM, but be carefull... if your ECM have nvram memory faults, it can die in the process...

Biggame520
4th February, 2013, 06:53 PM
I will give this a try once I have the correct file. Or can I use other 500 HP file given here?

sptecnico82
4th February, 2013, 09:18 PM
Yes, you can, is better with split and joint.

ricz
13th February, 2013, 02:51 AM
I need a calibration for a 1998 6067GK60 in a Frgtlnr is a 12.7l has a REL_32 computer on it, can some one share a calibration please, preferably something with higher horsepower.
Thanks!!!!

TDT
19th February, 2013, 10:40 PM
what is the best way to reprogram an ECM Detroid, by the 6 way connector? or OEM connector?

ricz
20th February, 2013, 03:24 AM
Both are pretty stable, I will recommend using the oem connector on some J1939 multiplexed trucks, sometimes there is a lot of traffic top 2 transmission, vorad, abs, etc. The calibration download could fail.

RAULIN
20th February, 2013, 05:27 PM
HI FRIENDS I HAVE A ECM WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSION AND I NEED TO INSTALLED IN A TRUCK WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION I DID BUT THE TRUCK DONT HAVE A SPEED PROPERLY,IS ANY WAY I CAN CHANGE THAT PARAMETER AND PUT AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ON AND HOW,THANKS FOR YOUR HELP

amishmafia00
21st February, 2013, 06:35 AM
you can do through ddrs easy. go into change customer calibration and change from manual(0) to auto (16).in dct change transmission type to 16 and change vss_is_etc from 0 to 1. you might have to change one of the settings for the auto trans to be able to activate the jakes but i forget what the name is.

trehlebov
21st February, 2013, 08:03 PM
Here All:

I have a DDEC 3 with serial # 06R0348378 wtih 500HP that I need a file for. Also this is my first time trying to flash a ecm. I have reprogramming software but I do not know where to place the file so that it will be detected when I click Program ECM. Please help and thanks in advance.

can you give me your cal? i need cal for DDEC 3 with 500hp