Renault Clio 2003 Auto Gearbox Problem

[z786]

Hi ppl,
kinda stuck here.
Have had this Reno Clio 1.2 auto/triptronic
Problem is the car wudnt get out of 2nd Gear, Gearbox off a working clio was fitted.
the car does not engage in gear or auto mode

Now i have cleared the adaptations succesfully, but i cant seem to program the No load/full load setting, evrytime i get told to press accelerator down it gives me an error even tho the pedal functions fine
these are the codes i keep getting

2D No load/full load not programmed

13D Sequence Solenoid valve "EVS2" circuit, short circuit to +12V

15D "EVS6" Sequence Solenoid valve circuit, short circuit to +12V

17G Exchanger flow solenoid valve circuit, short circuit to +12V

as always any input is appreciated

thanx

[Meat-Head]

Hi ppl,

2D No load/full load not programmed

13D Sequence Solenoid valve "EVS2" circuit, short circuit to +12V

15D "EVS6" Sequence Solenoid valve circuit, short circuit to +12V

17G Exchanger flow solenoid valve circuit, short circuit to +12V

as always any input is appreciated

thanx

Looking at your list
Would suggest that the gearbox ecu would appreciate an earth that possably broken off!


OR one or more on that list is gone dead short!

TOTALLY OFF TOPIC:

Ford crap with the fly by wire throttle will not let it start below 11 Volts, so just for a one off test (after earth points?) try some hump leads from another car (pref jap - higher charge rate) and just see what damage you cause.


(just look back at your last few posts unless you have spotted it)

[z786]

all wiring and earthing is bang on, the gearbox was working b4 it was taken off the other car so the solenoids cant be faulty, any other ideas plzzzzzzzzzzzz

[Meat-Head]

sorry misunderstood. Looks like you 'Posts' and 'Thanks' are both on 355!

In that case check the multiplugs have no bent pins.

On/off topic, got a friend (yes very funny) that works at "Meaty Saab & Italian Crap (very) Ltd" they have the same problem with the Saab
thingy with the manual gears and 'auto' clutch, they sometimes have no choice but to start the engine wind down window and shout "It's not my f**king gearbox" then <CRUNCH> into first <CRUNCH> a few times and the ecu decides it's going to play balll.

If you put it in gear does it crank? Ie is the Bo-selector (http://img.thesun.co.uk/multimedia/archive/00393/Bo_Selecta_393889a.jpg) switches is working? Reverse thrust lights?


Can you get the old motors off old gearbox plug them in and

a) See if it helps (for testing reasons)
b) See if you can use the old motors in a futre project for "Robot Wars"

[z786]

338 now lol the gear selector is abit of a strange one (never seen a reno auto b4)lol its just like a normal gear stick, goes forwards and backwards, no P,N,R,D

on the speedo it shows wat gear its in, when i push forward "D" comes on the screen, flashes for a few seconds then goes back to "N", i even tried triptronic, it goes in2 "1" then back to "N".

there is only 1 motor on there and the rest are solenoids, b4 the gear box was removed, the car it came from drove perfect.when the gearbox was fitted it was fitted in 2 days to ensure evrything went in perfect trust me.

All earth wires i checked wer perfectly bolted, would i need to bleed the oil? or short to 12V means something else, a dealer troubleshooting file would help if any1 has 1

Thankyou

[Zaebasto]

Thanks you

[z786]

Thanks you

??????????????????

[tech111]

well as for the first problem concerning i would suggest you tighten very well the grey multiplug that has all connectors for transmission , as for goes in2 "1" then back to "N, it can be same as before or try to see if multifunction switch is correctly adjusted , you can do this while gear shift is on neutral .

regards

[z786]

multiplug is fine, checked live data, solenoid 1-4 arnt communicating, gearbox comp is getting only 0.3V, when i run diagnostic the comp is fine. any1 can upload a technical manual? thnx

[Meat-Head]

multiplug is fine, checked live data, solenoid 1-4 arnt communicating, gearbox comp is getting only 0.3V, when i run diagnostic the comp is fine. any1 can upload a technical manual? thnx

sounds like 'high riestance positive connection in the fusebox area' - blown fuse.

or

one of them crystal clear super clean multi-plugs is withholding power, use volt meter on both sides.

So it's french, and got two faults (box & power to ecu)

[z786]

iv tried evrythin mate, if it was a customer, i wudv told him 2 f*ck off by now, but its the mechanics cusins car.

if i had a user manual id change the 2 solenoids, i jus dnt knw wich 1s

i found 1 on the net but its 4 a laguna, looking for 1 for the clio

thanx

[z786]

any1 here have dialogis 3.78? mayb they cud copy n paste 4 me?

[hmc]

buddy like meathead said ,high resistance. 'the problem was the same for me birds laguna .i hope you get it sorted as luv jobs tend to be always the one thats sticks in to the hilt & snaps off .

[z786]

buddy like meathead said ,high resistance. 'the problem was the same for me birds laguna .i hope you get it sorted as luv jobs tend to be always the one thats sticks in to the hilt & snaps off .

wer do i check for the resistance, how do i solve it wen i find it?

the diagnostics is showing the problem with a couple solenoids, if i had a diagram i wud knw which 1s 2 fcuk about wit

thnx

[Meat-Head]

Damm can't find excat photo that fits the bill

put one wire of your pretend volt meter to earth

On the first photo PRETEND says 4 VOLTS, (not ohms) and looking at at diagramme with the gearbox multiplugs that is correct. (pretend)

Now go to the radio side of the multiplug and now we check for the same PRETEND 4 VOLTS, Oh bugger me the second one only 1 volt, so the wire we stab and find 4 volts, but 1 volt on the pin, so therefore it has to be that pin rotten <YANK, SNAPP> look, it's green and flaky.


THIS is slightly messed up, but got a back malfunction, so pick the bones out of the above or hope you get a better reply.






http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/hardware-development/18619d1124547801-schematics-pin-outs-diagrams-blaupunkt2.jpg


http://lh5.google.com/abkogan/R-Cu0DYYmWI/AAAAAAAABa8/61YcBAKln0I/s800/DSCF5856.JPG

[m3mpower]

hi, i am sorry not to post a solution to your problem, but i want to say i have a 2002 renault clio quickshift, and it has exactly the same problem as yours, when i move the gear lever up to select 1, the 1 light starts to flash on the dash and then goes back to N, the car doesn't move anywhere, also, when i select 1, the engine doesn't rev up, it almost wants to die if i press the accelerator pedal, and as soon as it goes back to N, the engine revs up fine again.
i was told it could be a problem with the multifunction switch, the resistance must be set to 0 at the terminals, i will check that tomorrow and post here if anything new,useful.
thanks
Regards

[z786]

plz post results, im still stuck with that 1, i even changed the whole wiring loom but still no success

[m3mpower]

plz post results, im still stuck with that 1, i even changed the whole wiring loom but still no success
Hi there, this is the first time i do some work on this car and on a clio in general.
i have found a manual on the internet on how to adjust the multifunction switch but on an automatic clio and not on a quickshift auto/manual model, so i was hoping it would be the same procedure but it is not, i didnt know where to adjust the multifunction and where to check resistance on the terminals,
please have a look at the photos attached and could you please tell me where to find the multifunction switch on this car, thanks in advance
Regardshttp://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x244/m3mpower/DSC02799.jpg



http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x244/m3mpower/DSC02807.jpghttp://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x244/m3mpower/DSC02801.jpg

[z786]

on the manual it mite mean your gearstick!!
btw i managed 2 get it working, after i changed the loom, i noticed 40A fuse in engine fusebox blown, replaced it and PROBLEM SOLVED!

now i cant figure wether it was blown before and i never noticed or it blew after change of loom?

now the only problem left is that the gearbox motor stays running and kills the battery

[m3mpower]

on the manual it mite mean your gearstick!!
btw i managed 2 get it working, after i changed the loom, i noticed 40A fuse in engine fusebox blown, replaced it and PROBLEM SOLVED!

now i cant figure wether it was blown before and i never noticed or it blew after change of loom?

now the only problem left is that the gearbox motor stays running and kills the battery
HI, the manual was not about the gearstick, it was about the multifunction switch on top of the gearbox, but it was for a different type, the fully automatic ( torque converter ) gearbox, and not the quickshift auto/manual one like mine, so i couldn't find the multifunction switch on my one.
i will add a link to the manual i have and you can see the difference.
can you tell me if your symptoms were the same as mine, my one doesnt go into 1, it goes but the 1 flashes for a few seconds and goes back to N, and i cant select A auto from the button on the side of the gearstcik.
do you have a parts diagram for this gearbox, i want to know where the multi switch is, and the solenoids ??
thanks

[z786]

multiswitch is the big plug that all gearbox wires are connected 2.(if you look to the right of your first picture, the plug with the purple thing, that looks like it)
my symptoms wer the same, if you look at the gearbox and you will see the loom connects 2 a few plugs on the gearbox, they are the solenoids, in which order i do not know.
have you had a diagnostics check run on it????????

[m3mpower]

multiswitch is the big plug that all gearbox wires are connected 2.(if you look to the left of your first picture, the plug with the purple thing, that looks like it)
my symptoms wer the same, if you look at the gearbox and you will see the loom connects 2 a few plugs on the gearbox, they are the solenoids, in which order i do not know.
have you had a diagnostics check run on it????????
hi, no i haven't done a diagnostic check on it yet, i am expecting to use renault can clip diagnostic interface tool which is what dealers use but i have to wait a long time before i can get my hands on it.
and i was worried nothing would come up on the diagnostic.
anyway, according to the renault manual i have attached uploaded in my previous post, the big purple connector is the Modular connector, the multifunction switch is a different one, please look at the manual, scroll down to the page of adjustment instructions for the multifunction switch and you'll see what i mean.
so what do you reckon the problem is? is it the solenoids or the hydraulic thing or the wiring loom or ????
when you changed the gearbox and the wiring loom, was the problem still there until you changed the fuse ??
sorry about all these questions but i need to sort this out.
thanks in advance

[BeianM]

Check the resistance of the solenoids at the multi connector
Most common fault on the early renault gearbox. Other than that remember they are made of cheese, as a friend at the autobox shop informs me :)

[z786]

, the multifunction switch is a different one, please look at the manual, scroll down to the page of adjustment instructions for the multifunction switch and you'll see what i mean.


page 3 of your manual

"IMPORTANT

The multifunction switch must be in position N in
order for it to be removed."

now you tell me what the multifunction switch is????


on the manual it mite mean your gearstick!!


hmmmmmmmmmm i wonder

[z786]

the multifunction switch mentioned is a selector switch on gearbox itself which is linked 2 the multiswitch inside, i dont think this gearbox has 1 2 be honest

about the rest of your questions, get a diagnostic done first then we take it from there

[m3mpower]

Hi, i have found the correct manual/information on this type of gearbox, its a sequential type and i hape uploaded the PDF manual, it shows all details about solenoid valves and sensors, i know you have already fixed your one but you may need it in the future or for reference.
i still haven't fixed my one, i will start this weekend, if you find anything obvious/useful about this fault please let me know.
Regards

[z786]

can any1 giv me the location wer the gearbox ecu "TCU" on one of these is??
thanks

[m3mpower]

can any1 giv me the location wer the gearbox ecu "TCU" on one of these is??
thanks
its next to the battery, 2 in 1 engine and gearbox ECU..

[z786]

thanks, the original problem has returned!!!!!!
checked computer voltage on diagnostics and its 0.4v
i belive its a ecu fault, going 2 try disconnecting ecu and checking pin data

you sorted yours yet???????

[Meat-Head]

thanks, the original problem has returned!!!!!!


Cursoity:

When you have finished 'playing' draw a 'map' so you have something like

3 rd green wire 10 volts (whatever)

brown plug orange wire 8 volts *(whatever)

etc

leave the car 'ready to drive' Leave it a day, repeat experiment on 'above' wires soo if you get a differance.

Got to go and eat food and have a bath (smell worse than a plant fitter)

[m3mpower]

thanks, the original problem has returned!!!!!!
checked computer voltage on diagnostics and its 0.4v
i belive its a ecu fault, going 2 try disconnecting ecu and checking pin data

you sorted yours yet???????
no i didn't sort my one yet, i'm still waiting for the mobile diagnostic to come around and plug in the laptop, problem is he is too busy...
i did check a few things, like brake light switch, continuity between gear lever connector and ECU...etc, only incorrect reading i got was between the pump relay connector and the ECU, should be 0 resistance but i got 0.62, so i'll have to investigate further.
are you saying your problem came back after you changed everything incl gearbox and wiring loom? did it work fine for a few days and then stopped again ?

[z786]

wat i meant was that i had the full loom replaced, somehow the 40amp fuse in enginbe blew up, replaced the fuse and car started 2 drive normal but the pump kept running even with the ignition off resulting in it killing the battery.

i ran diagnostics and the faults wer this time just showing load adaptation not carried out, i tried 2 adapt but kept failing!! then i just cleared the original adaptations, this time evrything went perfect, car drove fine, no running motor, perfect

we left battery disconected overnight, in morning car was reacting like post #1 in this thread, back 2 square 1

wer r u based??

[m3mpower]

wat i meant was that i had the full loom replaced, somehow the 40amp fuse in enginbe blew up, replaced the fuse and car started 2 drive normal but the pump kept running even with the ignition off resulting in it killing the battery.

wer r u based??

Hi, sorry to hear that,
regarding the pump running constantly, did you check the pump relay, maybe it is faulty
i have previously attached a useful manual, around the time when your one was sorted, have a look at that, maybe it will help...
i am based in north london.
Regards

[m3mpower]

Hi, finally i have done a diagnostic check on the car using Renault official diagnostic equipment and it came up with two main faults:
1- Oil pressure sensor circuit
1.DEF inconsistency
this is what the manual says about this fault:

Check the oil level following the accumulator discharge procedure.
Check the pump supply fuse.
Check the pump relay with the fault finding tool using command AC012 hydraulic pump relay. Replace if
necessary.
Check that the pump assembly is operational using command AC012.
If the fault persists, replace the sensor.
Exit fault finding mode, switch off the ignition and wait 20 seconds, switch on the ignition and replace the pump
assembly if the fault reappears

2- Hydraulic control
5.DEF pressure too low


Pressure level below a pressure threshold. Problem linked to a lack of oil (internal or external leak) or to a pump
failure. Repair or replace if necessary.

i'm going to try and find a replacement pump and also change the sensor,
any ideas where i can find a pump ?
also, if you have any other ideas about these faults, please let me know
thanks

[turner]

Trying to get my head around this and want to start at the begining.

z768, what was the reason for the gearbox change in the first place?

Can you post the results of a scan of the original gearbox?

Can you post the results of a gearbox and uch scan now?

Eric

[z786]

Trying to get my head around this and want to start at the begining.

z768, what was the reason for the gearbox change in the first place?

Can you post the results of a scan of the original gearbox?

Can you post the results of a gearbox and uch scan now?

Eric

the reason the g/box was changed bcaus it was stuck in second gear, unfortunatly i hav lost the diag reading of it then, but as we had a smashed clio of same model parked up we thort we mite aswell change the whole thing, the donor g/box was working perfectly until fitted 2 this bag of sh*t

when the new one was fitted i was getting this reading:

2D No load/full load not programmed

13D Sequence Solenoid valve "EVS2" circuit, short circuit to +12V

15D "EVS6" Sequence Solenoid valve circuit, short circuit to +12V

17G Exchanger flow solenoid valve circuit, short circuit to +12V

when i changed the loom, and the 40amp fuse popped, the g/box started 2 work fine but i still coudlnt programmed load settings. as mentioned the motor was killing the battery so i cleared all adaptations, it fixed the motor problem and still drove perfect. we left battery off overnight and when reconnected in morning original problem returned, no gear select, no auto select, and above dtcs returned.

only thing which bugs me is in live readings the computer supply voltage is 0.8V, shudnt it be 12V??

with this car iv run outg of ideas, any input you mite suggest??

thanx

[Meat-Head]

only thing which bugs me is in live readings the computer supply voltage is 0.8V, shudnt it be 12V??

Peugot and shitroens do that in live bsi data, alternater 1.1volt etc, unless that's the o/p for alternator exciter circuit differance from 12volt.


Slightly confused (as normal) although tedious could you make a 'brake out box' with a trip to a scrapyard, cut plug off loom, smash the crap outta another ecu, but then again you suspect the ecu lol

like this but totally differant
Ford EEC IV break out box on eBay (end time 23-Mar-10 18:59:01 GMT) (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ford-EEC-IV-break-out-box_W0QQitemZ110507873314QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Dia gnostic_Tools_Equipment?hash=item19bac85422)

[z786]

Slightly confused

not the only one mate lol

i dnt knw wat 2 do, if it was up2 me id burn the fcuker lol
in the engine ecu, the voltage shows 12/13V

so its definitly ecu related

[z786]

Hi, finally i have done a diagnostic check on the car using Renault official diagnostic equipment and it came up with two main faults:
1- Oil pressure sensor circuit
1.DEF inconsistency
this is what the manual says about this fault:

Check the oil level following the accumulator discharge procedure.
Check the pump supply fuse.

Check the pump relay with the fault finding tool using command

AC012 hydraulic pump relay. Replace if

necessary.
Check that the pump assembly is operational using command


AC012.

If the fault persists, replace the sensor.
Exit fault finding mode, switch off the ignition and wait 20 seconds, switch on the ignition and replace the pump
assembly if the fault reappears

2- Hydraulic control
5.DEF pressure too low


Pressure level below a pressure threshold. Problem linked to a lack of oil (internal or external leak) or to a pump
failure. Repair or replace if necessary.

i'm going to try and find a replacement pump and also change the sensor,
any ideas where i can find a pump ?
also, if you have any other ideas about these faults, please let me know
thanks

have you tried to flush the oil out a few times??

[turner]

when i changed the loom, and the 40amp fuse popped, the g/box started 2 work fine but i still coudlnt programmed load settings.

I take it you changed the loom for the one out of the car you got the gearbox from?

Which loom did you replace, where did it connect from - to?

I agree the live data voltage is wrong.

Which fuse was it that had blown?

The most likely problem is that when installing the gearbox that you disturbed the wiring (impossible not to really)

As I am sure you know, renault wiring is cr*p and prone to corroding internally, I suggest you open up all the wiring, especially around the battery and relay box and pull all the wires, trying to stretch them, any corroded wires will break and give the game away.

Also remove the armour from around the engine ecu and check for chaffing and corrosion there also.

Most renault problems similar to this that I see are caused by bad earths and corroded wires, they need to be checked for carefully, they are not easy to spot.


The earths of the five solenoid valves are united on one terminal strip, fixed on the hydraulic unit.

Eric

[z786]

Which loom did you replace, where did it connect from - to?

yes it was from donor car, the loom that is on g/box that plugs in2 the multiplug



Which fuse was it that had blown?

it was a big 40amp fuse in enginge bay, the g/box fuse



remove the armour from around the engine ecu and check for chaffing and corrosion there also.


shud i just replace the ecu with one from the donor car 2 eliminate ecu??

i really appreciate your input, will try pulling all wires n checking the earths 2 see corrosion, thanx again

[What the hell am I doing]

Did you ever fix this in the end? I'm looking into one with exactly the same problems and have only done a code read and quick fuse check so far and have exactly the same symptoms as you.
I'm suspecting a power or earth supply problem somewhere.

[m3mpower]

Did you ever fix this in the end? I'm looking into one with exactly the same problems and have only done a code read and quick fuse check so far and have exactly the same symptoms as you.
I'm suspecting a power or earth supply problem somewhere.
i didn't, the car has been parked up since, i given up on her, dont know what to do, maybe sell it as it is.
i did a diagnostic check and there is a faulty sensor in the gearbox ( oil pressure if i remember well ) and something else too, i did post the results in my previous posts..
Regards

[Liteace]

I had the same problem with a Clio auto, I got a fooooked Clio with stick and cogs dropped the whole lot out the bottom, ebgine, g\box, subframe, steering, Legs, wheels, brakes, loom, of both cars, put the put the clio auto ebgine, g\box, subframe, steering, Legs, wheels, brakes, loom, in the back of the ~~~~~ed clio, put the ebgine, g\box (with cogs), subframe, steering, Legs, wheels, brakes, loom, into the, was clio auto, called tony the tin man to take away the ~~~~~~~ed clio with ebgine, g\box, subframe, steering, Legs, wheels, brakes, loom, in the back. The was clio auto (now with cogs) drives foward & backwards no problem

[z786]

my mechanic wants 2 do the same thing
can you plz explain step by step so i can tell him how 2 do it, did you leave the original ecu connected? did you change the instrument cluster?

[What the hell am I doing]

I found out the problem with mine earlier, I'll explain later.

[Meat-Head]

I found out the problem with mine earlier, I'll explain later.

There is several members in this thread who will be more happy if you explain now.

Welcome to DK the worlds best website

[What the hell am I doing]

Sorry for the delay I only came in for a moment earlier and had to go out again.
Anyway, I checked feeds to the ecu and voltage drop test all ok. Then I re examined the codes I got. Firstly with a launch X431 reader I got - Sequence solenoid valve EV52 short to +12v , Sequence solenoid valve EV56 short to + 12v , Exchanger flow solenoid short to +12v. (Same as Z786) Then I read with snap on code reader and I got Final drive solenoid circuit short to +12v, old oil , press modulator solenoid short to +12v.

So I checked every solenoid wire back to the gearbox ECU all ok. One thing I did notice was that I never heard the pump running. Anyway I decided to have a closer look at the solenoids and at the same time check the mechanical side of the gearbox linkage and put it back in neutral.
So I removed the whole actuator and pump as one unit.

The gearbox was indeed selected in 1st gear as displyed on the dashboard before. So I put it back to neutral. Then I checked all the solenoids and even powered them up to hear the clicking noise. In the end it turned out to be the hydraulic pump didn't work when tested for resistance or when powered up. So not willing to replace parts until I was sure, I removed the electric motor cover and checked inside. I found one of the brush wires was snapped. I wasn't 100% if it snapped whilst dismantling so I soldered it back together. The fun bit was putting it back together. But it was succesful and the motor ran good when tested. One of the brushes was nearly worn down so I will probably replace the motor anyway now.

So with a running hydraulic pump I wanted to test it all before refitting the lot. So I rested the unit near the gearbox where I could plug it all in. And initially the codes returned and the pump would run after clearing. I did this a few times (clearing codes) and then the codes stayed away, The ECU must of learnt that all was ok. So the car now starts and runs and the codes stay off. Tomorrow I will refit it all properly. Wish me Luck!

[Meat-Head]

Sorry for the delay I only came in for a moment earlier and had to go out again.
Anyway, I checked feeds to the ecu and voltage drop test all ok. Then I re examined the codes I got. Firstly with a launch X431 reader I got - Sequence solenoid valve EV52 short to +12v , Sequence solenoid valve EV56 short to + 12v , Exchanger flow solenoid short to +12v. (Same as Z786) Then I read with snap on code reader and I got Final !


Intreasting.

M-H-M got called out to this one of Z786 Motors, the pump run, long time, but we had no way of testing the output pressure. Also Z786 Motors managed to 'source' another ecu, etc, still no joy.

LOVE DK LONG tIME

[Liteace]

my mechanic wants 2 do the same thing
can you plz explain step by step so i can tell him how 2 do it, did you leave the original ecu connected? did you change the instrument cluster?

Everything I used, ECU and engine loom was from stick & cog car, no i didnt have to change the dash everything inside the auto was the same apart from the gearshift and gear stick boot. Its easy, as I say just drop everything out the bottom, loom ecu the whole lot and replace everytrhing from donor vehicle

[What the hell am I doing]

i didn't, the car has been parked up since, i given up on her, dont know what to do, maybe sell it as it is.
i did a diagnostic check and there is a faulty sensor in the gearbox ( oil pressure if i remember well ) and something else too, i did post the results in my previous posts..
Regards

I just saw your post and it looks like your pump is gone too. I did find on my one as well as the pump not working there was also electrical burning on the connector in the main actuater loom and also the relay for the pump has badly burnt contacts.

I think the best place to get a new pump would be from Renault, I'm not sure how much they are yet but I'm checking tomorrow for my one.

[z786]

i think you'l end up going 2 the scrap yard lol

[What the hell am I doing]

Very good. But it's not my car, I only offer new parts for my customers especially certain electrical or unknown mechanical parts. If they want second hand parts they can get them themselves and I'll charge to fit them. But I find a lot of breakers are reluctant to dismantle parts from a gearbox,they will usually want to sell it complete. I realise that new Renault parts are on the pricey side.

[dik]

I only offer new parts for my customers. If they want second hand parts they can get them themselves and I'll charge to fit them.
That's the way to do it, the only time I go rummaging at the scrapyard is when I break something on a customers car and have to replace it for free, like when changing the clutch on a ford focus you hang the engine and jack it forwards to clear the subframe and then snap a pipe off the evap canistor purge valve (I have done this twice now!)

[m3mpower]

I just saw your post and it looks like your pump is gone too. I did find on my one as well as the pump not working there was also electrical burning on the connector in the main actuater loom and also the relay for the pump has badly burnt contacts.

I think the best place to get a new pump would be from Renault, I'm not sure how much they are yet but I'm checking tomorrow for my one.

Hi, i think the pump would be expensive from the dealers, i found the same clio in a scrapyard yesterday with the same gearbox, i will try to remove the pump only and the sensor..
is it a big job? removing the pump?
Thanks

[What the hell am I doing]

I put it all back together and got it all working today and it drives perfectly. Initially it wouldn't select gears but after a few key off and engine restarts later it sorted itself out. I priced a pump at Renault trade was about ?225 + vat. About what I thought so that will probably be changed in the future. In all that I have done I managed to keep the hydraulic system intact so no bleeding or programming was needed.

Another point to note on these cars and it is quite important and that is regarding the fault codes. What I've noticed is that my scanner was going into what it thought was an automatic car when in fact it is a sequential gearox. It must be a very similar ECU to allow this. So ignore what the fault codes say. Unless you're using a Renault clip diagnostic scanner or a tool which specifies Sequential gearbox. The live data is also useless and must be ignored. In fact don't even bother unless you've got the proper tool to code read it. In the end it was careful checking of every component that sorted it. I could of got lead the wrong way if I believed what the scanner told me.

[m3mpower]

I put it all back together and got it all working today and it drives perfectly. Initially it wouldn't select gears but after a few key off and engine restarts later it sorted itself out. I priced a pump at Renault trade was about ?225 + vat. About what I thought so that will probably be changed in the future. In all that I have done I managed to keep the hydraulic system intact so no bleeding or programming was needed.

Another point to note on these cars and it is quite important and that is regarding the fault codes. What I've noticed is that my scanner was going into what it thought was an automatic car when in fact it is a sequential gearox. It must be a very similar ECU to allow this. So ignore what the fault codes say. Unless you're using a Renault clip diagnostic scanner or a tool which specifies Sequential gearbox. The live data is also useless and must be ignored. In fact don't even bother unless you've got the proper tool to code read it. In the end it was careful checking of every component that sorted it. I could of got lead the wrong way if I believed what the scanner told me.
Hi, was it an easy job to replace the pump?
i found a clio with the same gearbox in a scrapyard and i'm thinking to buy the pump off that and fit it in my one.
regards

[What the hell am I doing]

Hi, was it an easy job to replace the pump?
i found a clio with the same gearbox in a scrapyard and i'm thinking to buy the pump off that and fit it in my one.
regards

I didn't replace the pump yet, I have repaired it but will replace it in the future. It isn't difficult to replace the pump, you just remove the battery and the shield and the air filter box. Then you're supposed to use renault tool to de pressurise the accumulator, because the system could hold a high amount of pressure. Syphon off the fluid in the reservoir using a syringe then you just take the metal oil pipe off and unbolt the pump.

Fit the new pump and then when it's all back together you will have to top the fluid level up and bleed the system with a renault clip tool and re learn the gear positions etc whilst you're there.

[m3mpower]

So you what did you do exactly to get your one working?
you say i put it all back together.....
did you just replace the relay and the wiring loom connector?
Thanks

[Meat-Head]

the only time I go rummaging at the scrapyard is when I break something on a customers car and have to replace it for free


Yeah we had a lucky customer in a few months ago, whilst working on his car we spotted a "Hairline crack" on his diesel filter.

Good job we 'spotted' it and billed him for a new one 35 quid robbing bastard dealer

:smokin::smokin::smokin: :roflmao::roflmao::roflmao:

[What the hell am I doing]

I removed the complete hydraulic actuator and pump assembley as one complete unit without disturbing the hydraulic pipes. You will need to do this if you intend to repair the motor as access will be limited in situ. If you disturb any of the hydrulic pipes and fluid leaks out you will need the renault clip to bleed and calibrate the system so don't loosen any hydraulic pipes.

I took the can off the motor. Also the armature came off at the same time.It's not really designed to be repaired as there are four lugs holding the can on which flare out to retain it in position.You only have access to 2 of them so you really have to force the can off but carefully as there are magnets in the can which you don't want to break.Also there is a bolt holding the can onto the bracket a T30 torx which needs to come off.This is handy as it helps retain the can properly later. This then revealed the commutator brushes. You can remove the complete brush holder assembley now.I found a broken wire and soldered a new piece in. I then rebuilt the motor by fitting the armature in the can (line up the bearing in the end properly) then fit the brush holder assembley on the end of the can locating the brushes on the commutator as you go. Then you have to fit the whole can assembley back onto the hydraulic part of the motor. (Put a bit of sealant where it was before) This is fiddly as there is a keyed slot to line up. What I did was get it in as much as possible then operate the motor by feeding 12v into the wiring and gently force it back together. Try and re flare the lugs you can get to and secure the T30 bolt back on.

I did clean the connector in the loom but I haven't replaced the relay yet, It is still working, but I will replace this when I fit the new motor.

I would highly recommend you to just fit a new motor and relay and check the wiring plugs. Of course you should test the motor before you replace it also. You will see a big two pin connector running on top of the gearbox leading to the pump. Disconnect this and supply the red wire with 12v and the black wire with earth and see if the motor is alive or dead. Of course you could also have the situation where the electric part of the motor is running ok but something could be wrong with the hydraulic part where it may not be producing enough pressure. The pressure can be checked in live data using Renault clip.

I took a couple of pictures on my phone if it helps I don't know?
How do you do pictures on here, do I need to use my photobucket ?

[z786]

to upload pics, you need to click "go advanced" when your replying, scroll down 2 find a button called "manage attachments" the rest shud drop in2 place

[Meat-Head]

.

I took a couple of pictures on my phone if it helps I don't know?
How do you do pictures on here, do I need to use my photobucket ?

If you go to your profile page you have an 'albums' tab to store images, then you can do cool things like this, which is better than atatchments

http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/members/81877-meat-head/albums/tracy-barlow/3566-slide-4-tracy-barlow2.jpg

[What the hell am I doing]

This is the whole lot off the car
http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/members/185226-what-the-hell-am-i-doing/albums/clio-sequential/3662-1.jpg

This is the view of the broken brush wire,it's hard to see to be fair.
http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/members/185226-what-the-hell-am-i-doing/albums/clio-sequential/3663-2.jpg

This is the brush assembley with the repaired wire
http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/members/185226-what-the-hell-am-i-doing/albums/clio-sequential/3664-3.jpg

This is the whole lot plugged in but not fitted just for testing.
http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/members/185226-what-the-hell-am-i-doing/albums/clio-sequential/3665-4.jpg

[teuton]

Today had a Nissan Platina in. This car is a Clio II clone for southamerica. car was equipped with K4M 743 engine and autom. gearbox DPO 067. tranny was in limp mode and transmission light in dashboard on. Scan came up with
DF036, solenoid (valve) for pressure modulation open circuit or open to ground. Checking the wiring and resistance of the solenoid all turned out to be fine. Problem was water intusion in TCM, after drying and cleaning up, everything worked normally again.
Had quiet a few of those Clios with water getting into multiplug connector or TCM conector and causing malfunctions. HTH.

[turkey_electronic]

8200486971

8200385925

RENAULT X65 D4F BVR AUTO GEARBOX 29F400 EPROM DUMP... ?

CLİO 1.2 TRİPTONİC

PLEASE ?

[autotrans]

Renault diagnostics are not that good at the best of times
i find it better to do a pinout from the E C U . most ecu's
are fairly easy to get to up 05/6, quick pinout chart attached for D P O . don't do the semi auto's i am afraid