Software to decode a key via a picture

[sparkz02]

Is there any software out there that can decode a key via a picture?

I know most keys are quite easy to decode by eye whilst some are a bit complicated.

Would instacode do it?

Thanks,

[hauwkee]

not i trying to work on some like this with a programmer have all the pieces but i m not a programmer i succeed mesuring manually Schlague and kwikset with special software PM me for more info may be can do this together where are u US europe asia

[rapidlocksmiths]

one of the keyline machines works this way , it takes an image of a key to cut a copy .

talking cut to code machines , there is a guy on shoerepairer forum from scotland i believe , selling a bd laser/bianchi cut to code machine along with a laptop loaded with latest instacode , should be useful for someone

[redtop]

Is there any software out there that can decode a key via a picture?

I know most keys are quite easy to decode by eye whilst some are a bit complicated.

Would instacode do it?

Thanks,

I'm just an amateure, but I've decoded a couple of keys using Instacode and a vernier caliper. A good picture of the key should do as well.

[sparkz02]

My problem, is i just purchased a chacka bay, didn't know this bloody thing didn't cut to copy, now i do have huricane & other machines to cut to copy, just don't fancy carrying all them in the van, so if i could get a good software to decode a key, i can work that way around for now, I now its longgg but to start off with its alright.

[hauwkee]

i got that miracle a5 i like it .it can decode key as well any way duplicate key it s not our job we origin key no duplicate that why we take money
But i hear what u said some of thos customer keys look like knife it s not hard to see depth but the spacing a bit more tricky i used my punch or Blitz to read those
About Hi security Key i m pretty knew with it i usually get code or decode lock that a big down for the chacka bay
working on software as we speak

[hee]

I had seen this software.

[hauwkee]

I had seen this software.

what the name ? need that ?was looking for that GXXXgle it any direction website

[hee]

AutoKey Smart
I also looking for that.

[rapidlocksmiths]

guys , sight reading is an easy skill to use , nearly all keys can be read by eye in seconds , even with old failing eyes like mine.

as long as you know your locks and basic info like how many cuts how many heights , then its a doddle .

if you cant get along with sight reading , then use a lishi 2in1 or reader in mins to be sure .

sight reading once practiced takes minutes tops , using a lishi to confirm takes minutes tops , not as simple as having a decode function , but with many machines its simpler and quicker to sight read or confirm with lishi .

[dam495]

it's easy decode the key , when you are watching a key, the info that you need is, how many cuts, and the height for exemplo fiat has 4 height one cut is 0 one cut is 1 one cut is 2 one cut is 3 you just need to know the height 0 , height 1, height 2, height 3. it's simple buy the cylinder lock , disassemble and you will have your heights , when you look to that key you will know the cuts ,

[smokey08]

guys , sight reading is an easy skill to use , nearly all keys can be read by eye in seconds , even with old failing eyes like mine.

I dont find it very easy with badly worn keys. I always struggle to read tibbe 1 and 2 cuts.

[rapidlocksmiths]

tibbe are the exception as wear badly , and no machine can decode these either , but a good tibbe pick / decoder is generally 100% and takes minutes only .

[sparkz02]

I'm proper struggling to decode VAG gen 2 locks & hu101, I can open the looks on the bench it's a breeze takes min's. (Took hours of messing around!!!). Now the decoding should be the easy part.

On the VAG gen two I'm aware that you should decode in oppersite direction it was picked, but due to the fact I have VAG gen 2, with two lifters, when i try oppersite direction there is no wafer there? if that makes any sense. So I've been attempting to decode, in the same direction as i picked. then i enter the cuts into cut to code, sometimes the key opens one direction and not the other, sometimes its completely wrong doesn't work at all.

What I'm I doing wrong here?

Same similar scenarios with the hu101.

Do I need to run the cuts I get from the lishi via instacode? Have I missed a step?

Thanks for the help.!

[rapidlocksmiths]

with twin lifter tools you always decode the same direction as you picked in , not opposite .
This is because it picks and reads a different part of the wafer than the single lifter version , so with the twin lifter you do read same direction as picked.

if opens one way and not other then you are out on your decode .

if too heavy handed picking , you can alter the picking snibs position a tad , this then causes misreads on 1 side often , to get around this i tend to read a few locks i have and know the key for every so often , this shows me if one side reads just out or not and i can then compensate for this when decoding .

the give away is the No 5 cuts , if the reader reads bang on the line for these then the rest will read spot on , if it reads just past the line the rest will read just past the line with that lifter , if reads just before the line on the 5s then all with that lifter will read just before the line.

so if one side reads bang on the line , and the other side reads just past , and you get a reading in between 2 you know that its actually the lower cut reading .

ive a worn tool that reads 1 space out on one side , so as i know this i decode in one go as know my tool and compensate .

another option , lets say 1 side is reading out , you can decode the side you know reads spot on , then remove tool , turn it over and decode other side with good lifter .

you can also run cuts in instacode to see if valid , but far easier to know your tool and compensate.

the 5s are a good give away as to where yours is reading , ie dead on line , just past or just before , the 10 position is a good guide as should be a No 2 , so is this reading bang on line , just past or just before with both lifters , again this gives you valuable info on how your tool is behaving , allowing you to compensate accurately.

its always when wafers are forced or a tool slightly wears , the snib at the tip of the lifter then wears , if the snib is worn , it only takes the snib to bend or wear a tiny 10th of a mm to be a full 1mm out on the grid , so regular checking allows you to know your tool and compensate accordingly .