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    Question 93C86 in circuit writing

    Hi, instead of letting other people do my work I want to learn something so it might be a dumb question:

    Is there anything wrong with using a clip and read and write a 93c86 eeprom in circuit?
    I just think it will make it a lot easier.

    Thanks!

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    llanesluna (4th August, 2018)

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    Quote Originally Posted by jackieboy8 View Post
    Hi, instead of letting other people do my work I want to learn something so it might be a dumb question:

    Is there anything wrong with using a clip and read and write a 93c86 eeprom in circuit?
    I just think it will make it a lot easier.

    Thanks!
    I don’t see the problem here. That depends what reader you are using and the current voltage. I do it all the time.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    jackieboy8 (4th August, 2018)

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    I use a EZP2010. Just bought a clip for it. About the voltage, should I use auto detect or should I choose a V myself? The first dash I am gonna try is a 2016 Ford Mustang.
    thx!

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    Hello.
    Tested just now ,EZP2010 cannot, X-Prog ok .
    Beware about reading eeprom in situ , it can corrupt it.

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    rtbdiagnostic (5th March, 2021)

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    I've tried a few ford ranger 2016 93c86 in circuit And wouldn't read just corrupted dump.

    Lucky for me I had a spare dump. I tried a in circuit dongle which didn't work either. I know this is the same situation with ford explorer with 93c86.

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    I never have had any problem reading 93c86 at 3.2v with UPA-S.
    95/25xxxx is a different thing.


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    llanesluna, which programmer do you use?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jackieboy8 View Post
    llanesluna, which programmer do you use?
    Just wrote it. UPA-S Programmer


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    Okay I will desolder it then. Might be the best anyway right

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    some chips i do in curc , but after corupting a dash dump , no more , only if i have a backup
    Ask a dumb question and become wise for the rest of your life, but act wise and stay dumb

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    I looked twice at the chip but it looks a bit to small for me to desolder. My soldering skills aren’t the best. I only have the EPZ2010 but that one doesn’t work with a clip. Tried everything. Because I only have this car, who can suggest a EEPROM programmer that works for 100% with this car and comes with a clip to allow in-circuit flashing?
    thanks!

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    ignore realised it is a 93c86...

    Thanks
    Last edited by Smurf786; 20th August, 2018 at 06:24 PM.

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    From what i've noticed most us/japanese can be done
    2003-2014
    GM, Ford, Chrysler,nToyota/Honda/Nissan

    Some corollas you will need to remove eeprom,
    2012 Up Honda Accord If you have a good tool read write in circuit, removing eeprom is safer but then easy to damage gauge motors.
    2014 Up GM Trucks/SUV remove eeprom from board

    But with that said removing eeprom is always safer and depending on your equipment setup/skills etc. sometimes faster!
    Had a issue Had a issue with my uploads so if you see one of my posts and need that dump let me know and I'll post it!

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    jattal786 (23rd June, 2020)

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    Best and secured option is always to desolder eeprom, no matter what type. With clip you are always in danger to corrupt the data. With hotair you need few secondes to desolder and few seconds to resolder. I never killed a dash or any other ecu this way. And today the data in some ecu´s are very important. Of course any old dash you can easy repair by replacing dump from other (nearly same) dash. But in some car´s, depends on what type of ecu of course, you can get into big trouble, when loosing eeprom content. And this only to save some seconds. :-)

    Greets MR...

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    Thanks everyone for your thoughts. I am looking into the hot air soldering part. It looks easy to desolder. Just warm it up until you can pick it up. But how about resoldering, will the hot air be enough again? Because like I said I am not great at soldering (yet)

 

 
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